In Praise of the Juniper Berry

The hero of gin lovers everywhere, the juniper berry is not really a berry at all but the seed cone of the juniper plant. Juniperus communis—the common juniper—is a shrub or small evergreen tree with needle-like leaves that grow in whorls of three. Juniper often grows as a low-spreading shrub, but juniper trees can grow to over 32 feet (10m) tall. The juniper plant has over 50 varieties and the largest range of any woody plant in the Northern Hemisphere, thriving throughout the temperate zone across North America, Europe, and Asia.

Many cultures consider the leaves of the juniper to be a symbol of protection against disease and evil spirits. In Tuscany, a sprig of juniper is often placed in front of the door to offer spiritual protection to the house and its inhabitants. Juniper can also ward off snakes—according to the ancient Greek pharmacologist Pedanius Dioscorides—who claimed that the smoke from a fire of burning juniper could keep the slithering reptiles far, far away.

The “berries” of the juniper plant begin life a grey-green color. They ripen in 18 months to a deep purple-black hue with a blue waxy coating. Juniper berries are also revered for their medicinal purposes, particularly as a diuretic and for conditions of the kidney, bladder, and stomach.

Of course, to students of wine and spirits, the juniper berry is known primarily as the predominant flavoring in gin and other spirits such as Genever, Steinhäger, and Wacholder. The flavor profile of juniper berries is often described a pine-like, resin-like, intensely herbal and with bitter citrus notes. Noted author Harold McGee, in his book On Food and Cooking defines the flavor of juniper as “green-fresh.”

The Juniper Forest (“The Valley of Juniper”) in Ziarat, Pakistan

Juniper berries also play a role in culinary arts, particularly throughout Scandinavia and Central Europe. As such, juniper berries are often used to impart a sharp, clean flavor to meat dishes—particularly game, with its often distinct and robust flavor profile—as well as cabbage and sauerkraut dishes. Juniper has a natural affinity for pork and is found in many recipes for roast or braised pork, as seen in the recipe for choucroute garnie, a classic Alsatian dish of sauerkraut braised with mixed meats and sausages.

One more thing: on Easter Monday, according to tradition, the young men in Kashubia (Northern Poland) chase the young ladies around the town square, brushing (sometimes referred to as “gently whipping”) their legs with juniper sprigs. This custom is believed to ensure good fortune in love to the participants. I can only assume that after watching this annual tradition unfold, the parents would need a shot (or two) of gin.

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas: missjane@prodigy.net