The Portuguese Wine that Toasted the American Revolution

Washington Crossing the Delaware by Emanuel Leutze, 1851 (Public Domain)

This Fourth of July, I will mark the occasion of America’s independence with a bottle of Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine (Brut, Vintage 2022). One of the leading and original sparkling wines of the United States, Schramsberg was famously served at President Nixon’s 1972 “Toast to Peace” with China’s Premier Zhou Enlai, marking the first time an American wine had been offered at an official State Function. Since then, many American wines have graced the White House, with Schramsberg being a frequent choice.

The years that saw the American Revolution and the Founding of the United States of America very obviously pre-date the American wine industry by decades (and perhaps centuries if we were to wait for any really good wine). As such, our founding fathers often reached for Madeira—a fortified wine made on an island located off the coast of Africa but belonging to Portugal—to mark many a revolutionary occasion.

Like many fortified wines (think Marsala, Sherry, or Port), Madeira’s golden age may be many years behind us. However, in the heady days of the 1700 and 1800s, it was all the rage…and the British Colonists attempting to create a new world in North America had a particular fondness for Madeira. Madeira was a status symbol, a staple of economic trade, and (eventually), a badge of honor for the revolutionary, no taxation without representation throng.

The days of colonial America were the days of the Atlantic trade routes. Madeira was shipped from Portugal to British colonies across the world, including those in North America. Unlike more delicate wines (such as Bordeaux) that suffered from the long, hot journey across the seas, Madeira—rich, robust, and fortified—improved with the journey.

Declaration of Independence by John Trumbull, 1817 (Public Domain)

Madeira was also subject to lower taxes than the products of France or Spain.  As such, Madeira was delicious, strong, widely available, inexpensive, and wildly popular in colonial America. Beginning in the 1750s, Madeira Parties—groups of men day drinking Madeira—were all the rage in cities like Boston, Baltimore, Savannah, and Charleston. Like all legendary parties, Madeira Parties could get out of hand.

This (may have) happened after the passage of the very unpopular Stamp Act that greatly increased the taxation put upon many imported goods by the British Crown. Colonists hated taxation so much that it was common practice for the customs agents to let some cargo (very often Madeira) “slip through” customs without notice. However, in 1768, when John Hancock’s ship, the Liberty, arrived in Boston Harbor filled with eagerly-awaited Madeira wine…agents showed no leniency and the entire shipment was subject to a rather high tax. The people, deprived of their cheap, strong wine set forth a revolt, which led to another, which led to another, and eventually led to the Boston Tea Party. Along the way, Madeira became a symbol of rebellion.

Madeira, delicious and deliciously symbolic, began to be served at key moments in American history. In 1776, George Washington toasted the signing of the Declaration of Independence with Madeira. Later, in 1789, Madeira was used to toast the inauguration of George Washington and in 1792, Thomas Jefferson made a Madeira toast when he declared that Washington DC would be the capitol city of the new nation. A few centuries later, Barack Obama toasted his inauguration as President of the United States with Madeira, paying homage to generations of statesmen before him.

Truth be told, I have a bottle of Madeira ready in the fridge. This Fourth of July, after the Schramsberg and the fireworks, we’ll clink our glasses to commemorate the 250th birthday of the United States of America.

George Washington, I think, would be proud—we’ll be toasting with Madeira.

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Quintessentially Quincy

I was amazed and amused yesterday afternoon to find a lovely bottle of Quincy on the shelves of my local wine store…here in the wine mecca of San Marcos, Texas. Knowing that this was a lively Sauvignon Blanc—one of my favorite styles of wine—I grabbed it. Later that evening as I savored its zesty, fruity, liveliness touched with a hint of minerality, I realized I did not know too much about this tiny region in the Eastern Loire. As such, here goes…a few facts that are quintessentially Quincy!

#1: Quincy is a white-wine only AOC located in France’s Eastern Loire. It is located on the Cher River about  33 miles east/southeast of Sancerre, and immediately adjacent to Reuilly (another obscure Loire region that deserves more attention than it gets). While I may consider Quincy to be obscure (based on my admittedly American point of view), wine has been made here for centuries, and Quincy was the first appellation in the Eastern Loire to obtain AOC status (way back in 1936, and a few months before Sancerre was so recognized).

Map of the Quincy AOC via the INAO

#2: Quincy has become a bit better-known in the last few decades; this is no doubt due to its geographic proximity (and similarity) to the ultra-popular and widely distributed Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé AOCs. However, it is still a minor appellation if we count acreage: it is estimated that the Quincy appellation contains 875 acres of vines. If we compare this to 7,500 acres for Sancerre and 3,500 acres for Pouilly-Fumé, we can probably stop feeling guilty for using words that denote small.

 #3: The rules-n-regs of the Quincy AOC require that the wine be produced using a minimum of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and in practice, there is a good possibility that the wine is 100% SB. However, the appellation allows for the use of up to 10% Sauvignon Gris, and this is reflected in the vineyards of the region. The use of a bit of Sauvignon Gris can lend a bit of texture as well as aromas of tropical fruit or baking spices to the blend. (Note: this is unique in the Eastern Loire, as the white wines of most of Quincy’s neighboring appellations—including Sancerre, Reuilly, and Pouilly-Fumé—are required to contain 100% Sauvignon Blanc.)

#4: Quincy is known for lively white wines with a good zing of acidity. Look for the typical Sauvignon Blanc aromas of citrus fruit (lemon, lime, grapefruit), green fruit (green apple, green pear, and gooseberry) as well as notes of green grass, fresh green herbs, and a note of minerality. The acid will attack your palate like a lime grenade, and the minerality may remind you of the scent of the air after a crack of lightening…but the mid-palate and finish should be balanced and somewhat complex. Pair this wine with shrimp scampi, pesto primavera pasta, or anything garnished with citrus or tomatoes.

Photo of the Château de Quincy via: https://pop.culture.gouv.fr

#5: If you are visiting Quincy, be sure and visit the Château de Quincy for wine tasting, the lush gardens, and the historic castle—the site of which dates back to the 1400s. The town also boasts a wine museum, Villa Quincy, dedicated to both Quincy and the nearby Reuilly AOC.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Mountain High

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High elevation wines are having something of a moment. I see it everywhere…wine estates bragging about solar irradiance, diurnal temperature fluctuations, and the exceptionally drained, craggy soils to be found at high elevations.

Defining High Elevation Viticulture: While it is indisputable that high elevation vineyards have some unique features, it might be a good idea to begin with a definition: what, exactly, is a high elevation vineyard? After all…vineyards in Salta rise as high as 10,000 feet above sea level, while Napa’s Atlas Peak—considered high elevation for North America—tops out at 2,663 feet.

In California, high elevation enters the discussion beginning at around 1,000 feet above sea level. For example, The Mendocino Ridge AVA—specialists in Zinfandel and Pinot Noir—requires that vineyards using the designation have an elevation of at least 1,200 feet above sea level. This number was chosen in part due to its situation “above the fog line.” Another California appellation—Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA, approved in 2023—requires all vineyards to be planted on the hillsides at a minimum elevation of 1,400 feet.

In Europe, home to the Alps and the volcanoes towering over the Canary Islands, high elevation seems to enter the conversation beginning at about 1,600 feet above sea level. In Argentina, the lowest vineyards in Mendoza clock in at around 2,000 feet above sea level.

In other words, it’s complicated…so let’s just call it—vineyards can reap some of the benefits of elevation at a minimum of 1,000 feet above sea level…and it goes uphill (ahem) from there.

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The Air up There: The variables affecting high elevation terroir include cooler temperatures, drier air, more intense sunshine, wider diurnal temperature fluctuations, and well-drained soils—as described below.

Temperature: As everyone who has ever hiked the mountains knows…temperatures drop at higher elevations. To be as precise as meteorology can be, you can expect the ambient temperature to drop approximately 6.5 degrees Celsius (11.7 degrees Fahrenheit) for every 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) gained in elevation. (That’s 3.5 degrees F for every 1,000 feet in elevation.) These cooler temperatures slow ripening and retain acidity—this can lead to concentrated aromatics and flavor precursors bursting at the seams. In the case of grape flavor complexity, low and slow ripening wins the race.

Sunshine: High elevation equals more sunshine—for every 1,000 feet of rise, the intensity of UV rays can increase by as much as 10% to 12%. Grapes adapt to this solar intensity by developing thicker skins, resulting in wines with deep color and ripe, concentrated tannins.

Wind and Fog: Air streams encounter more friction at lower elevations, so the higher the altitude, the windier it gets, and the drier the air remains. The wind can keep temperatures low and also relieve some disease and fungus pressure—mold does not like dry vines.  In addition, high elevation vineyards are often situated above the fog line…another vote for dry air.

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Wide Diurnal Temperature Swing: All of this dry air means that there is a lack of cloud cover and humidity to hold in the heat overnight. Rather, as soon as the sun sets, the warm air rises and the temperature drops quickly. This creates the lovely cycle of sunny, warm days (where endless sunshine equals efficient photosynthesis and lots of sugar production) followed by cool nights (minimizing the loss of acidity due to respiration).

Soil Drainage: Steep slopes can promote erosion and soil runoff, leaving behind thin, rocky, well-drained soils. These rugged soils are typically low-fertility and therefore naturally produce lower yields—resulting in smaller grapes with less volume and highly concentrated aromas and flavors.

High Elevation Wines at their Best: It is one of the wine world’s best vinous conundrums: high elevation vineyards produce low-yield, high-quality fruit that can, in turn, produce wines with concentrated flavors, rich tannins, and deep color, while retaining a lively elegance along with impressive levels of acidity. Worth the climb!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Five Fast Facts about the Margaret River Region

Vineyards in the Margaret River Region

The Margaret River is many things. It’s a town! It’s a river! It’s a wine region!

Here at the Bubbly Professor, we are mostly interested in the wine region, but the region (of course) is shaped by the river. It’s a fascinating spot, so let’s explore five fast facts about Australia’s Margaret River wine region.

#1: Look to the far west of Western Australia. The Margaret River Region is located in the far west of Western Australia. It consists of a long, narrow stretch of land (about 60 miles/96 km from north to south) jutting out from the Australian landmass, surrounded on three sides by the waters of the Indian Ocean. Its namesake—the town of Margaret River—is pretty much a surfing town (it was featured in the 60s surfing flick Endless Summer) and is home to just over 6,000 permanent residents. To reach the town (and the wine region) you will need to drive about 170 miles/275 km south from Perth—the nearest city—and as such, many people describe Margaret River as “the most geographically isolated wine region on earth.”

Wine map of Western Australia via WineAustralia

#2: The Margaret River runs through it. The Margaret River—just 37 miles/60 km long—flows from its source in the Whicher Range across the Margaret River Plateau until it meets the Indian Ocean. The Whicher Range is not too tall (the average height of the hills is just 558 feet/170 m above sea level), and the typically calm river changes its character with the seasons as the volume of water varies and causes the banks to expand and contract. The point where the river meets the sea—River Mouth Beach—is an interesting spot, as the calm river waters meet the wild, surf-worthy waves of the West Australia Coast.

#3: It’s young—at least for a wine region. Commercial viticulture did not arrive in the area until the 1960s, when several people—notably Dr. Tom Cullity, a Perth cardiologist influenced by a paper written by Dr. John Gladstones of the University of Western Australia—took note. Dr. Cullity planted vines that would become the Vasse Felix Winery—often called Margaret River’s founding winery—in 1967. Other endeavors soon followed, including Moss Wood (1969), Cape Mentelle (1970), Cullen Wines (1971), and Leeuwin Estate Winery (in 1973).

Cape Leeuwin

#4: Its more maritime than most. The area is greatly influenced by the surrounding ocean—and has what n described as “the most marked maritime climate of any region in Australia in terms of rainfall.” The area enjoys an average of 1,000 mm (almost 40 inches, about the same as Seattle, Washington) of rain a year. Other aspects of the climate are, however, a tad more Mediterranean—with most of the rain falling during the winter, followed by a warm, dry summer and little chance of frost or freezing temperatures.

Other aspects that contribute to the local terroir include the latitude—the area is situated comfortably within the temperate zone of the Southern Hemisphere at 33.5°S—and the region’s relatively low elevations (the average is just 131—744 feet/ 40–227 m above sea level). Soils include well-drained red loam topsoil dotted with gravel atop gneiss, schist, and granite-based sub-soils.

#5: In terms of grapes, it’s more Bordeaux than Barossa. The top three grape varieties in the Margaret River—Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Semillon—hail from Bordeaux. As is typical of Bordeaux, many of these grapes make their way into blends, including Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. Also noteworthy is that Margaret River is one of the few regions in Australia (in addition to the far more famous Hunter Valley) with a focus on Semillon. As for those grape varieties considered more typical of Australia: Chardonnay makes a good show in the Margaret River Region (by most accounts, it is the fourth-most-widely grown grape). Shiraz, however, only takes up just 13% of the total acreage (compared to 27% country-wide).

The area of Western Australia has been inhabited for over 50,000 years. Its first inhabitants—the Wadandi people—are considered the traditional owners of the land, collectively known as Wadandi Boodja, meaning Saltwater People’s Country.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

The grape, the place, the wine, the rooster (???): CHIANTI!

When teaching my intro classes (particularly the How to Read a Wine Label section), I always use Chianti as a case-in-point. It works perfectly as it is a wine named for the appellation (not the grape), and well…it is delicious. Most people (even the absolute beginners among us) have heard of Chianti—although they might just be remembering the candle-dripped, wicker-wrapper bottles of their youthful indiscretions.

So, for those absolute beginners in my class (side note: you’re my favorites) and anyone else who can use a primer on Chianti…here are the basic facts of this not-so-basic wine.

For starters: Chianti is a dry red wine produced in Tuscany (central Italy). Tuscany is a powerhouse producer of red wine and the home of many famous wines—including Brunello di Montalcino, Sassicaia, and Carmignano—but there is no doubt…Chianti is the most famous of all. The Chianti Classico DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is also one of the oldest designated wine regions in the world; the historic center of the Chianti production zone—Chianti Classico—was first delineated (by none other than the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo de Medici III) in 1716.

Chianti may be produced using several grape varieties, but the leading grape is Sangiovese. Repeat after me: Sangiovese. You can read all about Sangiovese here…using the Bubbly Prof’s Wine Grape Cheat Sheet for Sangiovese.

However, to keep it simple, here is what you can expect from Chianti, or any other Sangiovese-based red wine: dry, medium-to-full bodied, medium-to-full tannic structure, bright acidity and flavors of red fruit (cherry, strawberry, blueberry), flowers (dried roses), some baking spices (cinnamon), herbs, sometimes leather, and a good whiff of earthy goodness (dry leaves, wet dirt, Sunday-in-the-park-as-soon-as-the-ground-dries-after-a-good-soaking-rain).

Here’s where it gets a bit (just a bit) more complicated: there are two separate appellations (DOCGs) for Chianti. They are nested (one is located inside the other), but they are separate (they do not overlap).

The central and most historic appellation is the Chianti Classico DOCG. This is the heartland of Chianti…located inland from the Tuscan coast and surrounding the “original communes” of the Chianti region: Greve, Castellina, Gaiole, and Radda. The gallo nero (Black Rooster) is the symbol of Chianti Classico, and you’ll see his picture on every bottle. If you’d like to know the story behind the black rooster of Chianti Classico (and trust me, you do) just click here.

The Chianti DOCG is larger and more diverse than the centralized Chianti Classico DOCG. The Chianti DOCG covers a large part of central Tuscany, extending from Florence in the north all the way down to Sienna in the south. The Chianti DOCG contains within it seven sub-appellations, and you can read all about them here.

Chianti is a food pairing dreamboat. With complex flavors and enough acidity to stand up to the squirt of fresh tomatoes, Chianti can play well with just about any tomato-based Italian dish. Bring on the manicotti, lasagna, and spaghetti…and don’t you dare forget the pizza. It can also stand up to bigger-and-bolder dishes such as grilled steak or roast pork loin. And, what a joy, Chianti is equally comfortable with lighter, greener food and will not hesitate to support your pesto pasta, Caprese salad, or crunchy crudités (but please have lots of salami and cheese on that platter/just a personal request).

A few rules and regulations (for the die-hards)

  • Chianti DOCG must contain a minimum of 70 % Sangiovese. Other allowed grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, “any red grape allowed for use in Tuscany,” and a maximum of 10% white grapes (allowed for use in Tuscany). The wine is always fermented to dryness and must contain a minimum of 11.5 % abv.
  • Chianti Classico DOCG must contain a minimum of 80% Sangiovese. Other allowed grapes include Colorino, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot (defined as “other red grapes authorized by Siena and Firenze”).  White grapes are not allowed in Chianti Classico. The wine is always fermented to dryness and must contain a minimum of 12% abv.

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Confusion Corner: The Cerasuolos

Two Italian wines use the term cerasuolo in their titles: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. These two appellations consistently end up in the confusion corner, for obvious reasons.

The term cerasuolo is related to the Latin word cerasia—meaning cherry—and does indeed refer to some sort of cherry-like attribute. However, that in itself does not mean that these two wines are the similar in style.

To clear up any confusion, let’s take a closer look at the cerasuolos.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC: This Abruzzo-based cerasuolo is a wine with a “cherry-pink” color; famous for being one of the few Italian appellations with a focus on rosato.  The required formula includes a minimum of 85% Montepulciano grapes—with the other 15% allowed to be comprised of any red grape allowed for cultivation in Abruzzo.

The color is described—via the disciplinare—as rosa ciliegia più o meno carico (“more or less intense cherry pink”). This characteristic color is produced via vinificate…in presenza della buccia per un limitato periodo di fermentazione, al fine di conferire al vino ottenuto il caratteristico colore rosa ciliegia (see the disciplinare, article 5, as posted below). Translation: “The grapes are to be vinified in the presence of the grape skins for a limited fermentation period to give the resulting wine its characteristic cherry pink color.”

The Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC covers a large part of the Abruzzo province and co-exists (in the exact same geographic area) as the well-known Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC. The appellation rules require that most of the vines be planted at elevations of or 500 meters (1,640 ft) or lower. As such, the appellation includes the entire coastline and the coastal plains of Abruzzo before zigging and zagging through the interior of the region, hugging the lower-elevation valleys and foothills of the Apennines.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo was awarded its DOC in 2010; prior to this date these wines were bottled as a specific style of wine produced within the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo DOC).

Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG: This cerasuolo is a wine with “cherry-like” aromas and a deep red color. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is famous as Sicily’s one-and-only DOCG.

The rules require this wine to be produced using 30% to 50% Frappato and 50% to 70% Nero d’Avola. The Frappato grapes are credited with giving the wine its distinctive cherry-strawberry aromas. Thin-skinned Frappato does not, however, bring much in terms of tannin or structure to the wine. These attributes are, however, well-provided by the Nero d’Avola. Nero d’Avola grapes are also largely responsible for the wine’s deep color, which is described as da rosso ciliegia a violaceo (“from cherry-red to purplish”) via the disciplinare.

The defined area for the production of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG is located in the southeastern corner of the island of Sicily, encompassing the coast (and the city of Vittoria) and extending inland for almost 45 miles (70 km). The Vittoria DOC—which allows for the production of red blends as well as varietal bottlings of Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Ansonica—occupies the exact same area as the Cerasuolo di Vottoria DOCG.

One more—Cerasuolo, Molise: Just to make it crowded in the confusion corner, Cerasuolo is also the name of a small town (hamlet) in Molise. Located within the commune of Filignano, this Cerasuolo is located right along the border between Molise and Lazio. Cerasuolo in Molise lies within a mountainous region of the Apennines and It is not really known as a wine capital, although it does lie within the (nearly) region-wide Molise DOC.  Rather, this Cerasuolo is super-small mountain town (around 300 buildings) located just outside of a large national park—the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio, e Molise.  Click here for a dreamy, beautiful visual tour of Cerasuolo in Molise, via Michael Pacitti.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Save the Bubbles!

To properly open a bottle of bubbly: remove the muselet (wire cage), grip the cork in one hand and place the other around the bottle. Gently twist the bottle (NOT the cork) and slowly pull the bottle away from the cork.

Happy New Year to everyone—including those who pop and those who hiss!

All I Want for Christmas…is a decent wine pairing!

This time of year, everyone asks me for wine pairing suggestions for the holidays. It’s a great question, but difficult to answer, as Christmas dinner can be quite eclectic! At least with Thanksgiving, we can pretty much count on a turkey. But among my friends and family, Christmas dinner means different things to different folks! Some go for a fancy prime rib, others go traditional with turkey, some folks opt for glazed ham, and one family insists on lasagna! In the spirit of whatever floats your gravy boat, here are a few heartfelt suggestions.

Fancy Christmas—Roast Beef, Prime Rib, or Beef Wellington…of course, red wine with red meat is a mere cliché…certainly, one can pair beefy-beef with a sturdy white wine or a zingy rosé. However, in this case, the wine cliché rocks—and in my mind, prime rib, roast beef, and their ilk deserve to be served alongside a powerful red wine. You’ll want a wine that can survive a few rounds in a cage match with a fatty, roasted, seared, salt-pepper-and-rosemary-rubbed hunk of beef. If you are looking to splurge, grab your favorite Napa Cabernet (hopefully from 2020 or a few years earlier). If you are on a budget, seek out a good, round, twenty-dollar Malbec from Mendoza. Either way, you’ll have a winning match (and a good excuse to take a nap).

Hallmark Christmas—Maple Glazed Ham…here is your chance. Freak everybody out by serving an off-dry German Riesling. Relax and enjoy the show as your wanna-be-a-wine-snob friends turn their noses up at anything with residual sugar and serve them a young-and-gritty Napa Meritage that obliterates 10 percent of their taste buds. (Whoops. So sorry.) For everyone else, demonstrate the sheer pairing perfection of the Riesling…the way the sweetness in the ham’s glaze—as well as those marshmallowy sweet potatoes—makes the wine taste dry and perfectly balanced. It is the best of both worlds…serve a sweet wine, taste a dry wine. It’s like magic.

Traditional Christmas—Roast Turkey and all the trimmings…this is the most schizophrenic meal of the year, combining sweet, savory, salty, and acidic dishes with abandon. I have gone into detail on the possible pairing computations here, but if you want a quick fix…go for Pinot Noir or Beaujolais Cru. Both wines have just enough flavor and power to pair nicely and please just about everyone—while they shouldn’t clash or overpower the bountiful (and eclectic) dishes.

Vegetarian Christmas…I refuse to comment on tofurkey (but if that’s your jam, you do you)! However, being a former Berkeley girl, I always have a few vegetarians in the close-knit friends group. For these folks, I make sure to have plenty of options on the table such as green bean casserole, roasted carrots with whipped feta and walnuts, and/or grilled asparagus. To pair with all these delectable veggies, I reach for Grüner Veltliner. Native to Austria, this grape—redolent with aromas of green fruit, herbs, and white pepper—produces light-to-medium bodied white wines rich in savory flavor. In my humble opinion, it is one of the best wines to pair with veggies of all kinds. It will work with the turkey and ham as well, just in case those so-called vegetarians sneak a chunk or two when they think no one is looking.

Dysfunctional Family Christmas…have no fear, the wine world has the perfect antidote for awkward families: rich, high-octane red Zinfandel from California. Lodi, Dry Creek Valley, and Paso Robles will be happy to serve you up a spicy, fruity, bold Zinfandel that might just reach 15% alcohol by volume. It is perfect…you can take the edge off the “why aren’t you married” talk and just smile…release your best “evil laugh” and do the “crazy eyes.” Hopefully, the wine will have turned your teeth purple, and you will look like a true lunatic. Your relatives will flee, and you will be blessed by a peaceful evening and the truth that red Zinfandel will never let you down.

Of course, when it comes to food, wine, and holidays: eat what you like, drink what you like, celebrate how you like, and share your time with those you love! Happy holidays to all!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Five Fast Facts about the Calatayud DO

Unless you are a true wine geek (and I certainly consider myself one), you may have never heard of the Calatayud Denominación de Origen (DO)—fair enough. However, I have been seeing more of these wines on the shelf at my local liquor hangout, so I thought that it was a good time to introduce…Five Fast Facts about Spain’s Calatayud DO!

#1: It’s in Aragón—a region that is not really well-known for fine wine. Tucked just beneath the Pyrenees and inland of Catalonia, the area has a great history (in Medieval times, it was its own kingdom), amazing topography (it is home to the highest mountain in the Pyrenees and crisscrossed by the Ebro River), and incredible cities (visit Zaragoza and tour the Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar). While the area does produce wine, none of the appellations are that well-known. Trust me on this one (or read fast fact #2, below).

#2: Calatayud is one of just four DOs located within Aragón. The Somontano DO—home to some delicious, Garnacha-based rosés and well as some nice varietal reds—is located in the north of the area. Two smaller areas, Campo de Borja and Cariñena, are—along with Calatayud—located and south of the Ebro River Valley. All of these appellations are approved for a long list of wine types and styles—from solid reds to light rosé and white…even sparkling and dessert wines.

#3: The Calatayud DO specializes in big red wines…mainly Garnacha and Garnacha-based blends. This hot, dry, hilly region is a challenging place for agriculture…but Garnacha thrives in areas such as these. Garnacha accounts for just over 75% of the area’s nearly 9,000 acres of vines. Other red grapes—such as Tempranillo and Mazuelo—also thrive in the region and are often part of the Calatayud Tinto blend. (Note: Garnacha is the Spanish name for the grape otherwise known as Grenache.)

Photo of the bell tower at the Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor by Diego Delso, via Wikimedia Commons

#4: Like the other DOs of Aragón, the Calatayud DO is approved for the production of a long list of wine styles. Tinto (red), rosado (rosé) and blanco (white) may be produced in a range of sweetness levels ranging from bone-dry to super sweet; the terms used for these range from seco (dry) to semiseco, semidulce, and dulce (sweet). Fortified wines—known as vino de licor—may be produced using Garnacha, Macabeo or Moscatel (Muscat). Sparkling wines—vino espumoso—and Spain’s unique, slightly fizzy vino de aguja are also produced in Calatayud.

#5: The Calatayud DO is situated somewhat between the far-more-famous appellations of Priorat (about 150 miles to the east) and Rioja (about 150 miles to the east). The appellation is named after the tiny city of Calatayud, known for its 15th century Mudéjar bell tower on the grounds of the Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor (Collegiate Church of Santa Maria)—the tallest in the region.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Pertaining to Petrichor

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Wine and spirits aficionados have a unique vocabulary. Consider these terms, and admit to yourself how often you have used them: foxy, malo, stemmy, corked, brett. Dig a bit deeper and we find hogo, rancio, lanolin, graphite, and iodine.

And then there is petrichor, often used to describe an earthy, sometimes mineral-like aroma defined as “the scent that arises from the earth after it rains.” To be specific, it refers to the scent of the air after a light rain falls on dry earth—the breaking of a dry spell, as it were. Scientists will tell us that we humans find the aroma pleasant due to the fact that in an evolutionary sense, humans relied on the rain for survival and the aroma represents life-sustaining rainfall (a fact which remains true today).

The term itself was invented in 1964 by two Australian scientists—Isabel Joy Bear and Richard G. Thomas—who were working for Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO). Their work was published in the March 1964 edition of Nature magazine, under the title The Nature of Argillaceous Odour (the word “argillaceous” referring to rocks or sediment containing clay).  Bear and Thomas explained the source of the petrichor aroma as remnants of the oils emitted by plants and bacteria trapped in the soil.

The word itself is derived from the Greek petra (stone) and ichor (the blood that flowed in the veins of the gods, according to Greek mythology). In terms of etymology, it is the stuff of legends: blood from a stone. 

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In 2015, scientists at MIT figured out—and captured using high-speed cameras—the mechanism of petrichor. Put simply, as a raindrop hits the ground (a porous surface), tiny air bubbles are trapped just below the surface. The bubbles then shoot upward, creating a tiny explosion of aromatic compounds as they escape the surly bonds of earth.

Pop culture alert: the word petrichor had its moment of fame in the Doctor Who TV series. In the episode titled “The Doctor’s Wife,” characters played by Karen Gillna, Matt Smith, and Suranne Jones used the word as part of a password (Crimson…Eleven…Delight…Petrichor). They defined petrichor as “the smell of dust after rain.” It’s an impressively accurate definition. Check out a video here.

There is also a winery known as Petrichor Vineyards, located in Sonoma’s Fountaingrove District AVA. According to the winery website, the term “petrichor” represents a passion for terroir—and a good choice it is.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net