(Under the) Tuscan Syrah

February 18, 2025 1 Comment

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Tuscany is truly the land of Sangiovese; most of its famous wines—all variations of Chianti, beloved Brunello, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano to name but a few—are based around Sangiovese in all its glory. However, in the Cortona DOC—tucked into one tiny southeastern corner of the province—Syrah rules the roost.

The cultivation of Syrah has a long history in Cortona. Fanciful legends abound about its introduction to the area from the post-Crusades Middle East; others tell of its introduction along with the political upheaval following the fall of House of the Medici (1737).

Recorded history is not quite so colorful but (according to the website of the Consorzio of the Cortona DOC) can trace Tuscan Syrah back to the early twentieth century, when the Count of Montecarlo di Lucca brought some vines back to his property in Arezzo following a trip to France. A few generations later—by the 1960s—several estates in the area discovered Syrah vines tucked in and around their established vineyards and encouraged and expanded its use.

In the 1970s, science—by way of Professor Attilio Scienza at the University of Milan—began to study the efficacy of several different cultivars in and around Cortona and discovered that Syrah performed exceptionally well.

The study also revealed significant similarities between the terroir of Cortona—an area tucked into the foothills of the Apennines and blessed with an abundance of sun-drenched, south-facing hill sides—and the Syrah-dominant Northern Rhône Valley of France. These days, Syrah—accounting for as much as 80% of the area’s vines—is well established in and around Cortona.

Photo via: fabriziodionisio.it

By the late 1990s, the Cortona DOC had been established, requiring Cortona Rosso DOC to contain a minimum of 50% Syrah.

As far as I can tell, Cortona Rosso is the one of only two DOC/DOCG wines of Italy (aside from varietally-labeled wines) that require the use of Syrah. (The other is the Lazio’s Atina DOC that requires the use of a minimum 10% Syrah in addition to at least 50% Cabernet Sauvignon.)

  • The details of Cortona Rosso DOC include:
    • Grape varieties: 50% to 60% Syrah, 10% to 20% Merlot, maximum 30% other red grapes allowed for use in Tuscany
    • May not be released for sale before March 31 of the year following the harvest
    • Riserva versions must be aged in oak barrels for a minimum of one year and may not be released for sale before November 1 of the second year following the harvest

In addition to its Syrah-focused red blends (rosso), the Cortona DOC allows for the production of several other styles of wine. Many of these are varietal—including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Grechetto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese as well as Syrah. By EU standards, the varietal wines must be produced using a minimum of 85% of the named grape variety. The Cortona DOC also allows for the production of Vin Santo (based on red and/or white grapes).

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Many Americans became familiar with Cortona via the best-selling book Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes. The book—and later, the movie—made the town look idyllic, which happens to be true. Cortona is a dream-come-true for travelers who prefer to venture off-the-beaten-track. You will find plenty of delicious opportunities to wine and dine in Cortona, and the community is rightfully proud of the local wine. Main sights to see include the main town squares (Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo and the Palazzo Comunale), the ancient walls of the city, an impressive museum of Etruscan antiquities (Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della città di Cortona), the Basilica di Santa Margherita, and (of course) Bramasole.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marocs, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Context is queen

Confusion Corner: Cadillac

January 21, 2025 Leave a comment

It’s a place! It’s a person! It’s a car! It’s two separate AOCs! Cadillac—a word with many meanings—is long overdue for an untangle here in the Confusion Corner.

Since this is a wine blog, we’ll start with the town and the wines of Cadillac. But hang on for a great story about a character who crowned himself the Sire of Cadillac, and how this relates to the automotive legend known as the Cadillac Sedan.

The town—Cadillac, France: Cadillac—population: 2,800— is a small town (commune) in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France. The town has history: it was established in 1280 by Jean I de Grailly—a senior official of the Duchy of Gascony—in order to provide river access for the Château de Benauge. These days, the small town serves as an excellent home base or stop-over for a wine tour of Entre-Deux-Mers, the Médoc, and Graves; and you can visit the imposing Castle of the Dukes of Eperson (Château des ducs d’Épernon/Château de Cadillac) built in the 1500s. Along the way, you can visit the Château de Benauge (about 6 km/4 miles to the northeast).

Map of the Cadillac AOC via the INAO

The wines—the Cadillac AOC: The Cadillac AOC is located just to the east of some of Bordeaux’s most famous sweet wine-producing regions, including Sauternes, Barsac, and Cérons. The Cadillac AOC hugs the east bank of the Garonne River and is home to dozens of lakes, rivers, and streams—including the Estey de Rouquey, the Lac de Baurech, and the Ruisseau de l’Euille. All this flowing water creates a recurring layer of mists and fog— which settles into the nooks and crannies of the lowest-lying vineyards—and allows for the formation of botrytis cinerea on the vines. This in turn allows for the production of luscious, flavorful, sweet white wines—and, like many appellations that surround it, the Cadillac AOC is approved for sweet white wines only. The main grape variety of the Cadillac AOC is Sémillon; Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, and Sauvignon Gris are allowed as well. The wines of the Cadillac AOC must contain a minimum of 51 g/L residual sugar; grapes may be affected by botrytis and/or air-dried after harvest (a process known as passerillage).

Map of the Côtes de Bordeaux AOC via the INAO

The wines—the Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux AOC: The entire area of the Cadillac AOC (as well as a small parcel extending from its northern edge) is included in another appellation, the Côtes de Bordeaux AOC. Cadillac is a sub-appellation of the larger Côtes de Bordeaux AOC, which encompasses four discontiguous plots of land (and five named sub-appellations) located to the east of the Garonne River and the Gironde Estuary. As if that weren’t confusing enough, the Cadillac-Côtes de Bordeaux AOC—is approved only for red wine. The allowed grape varieties mirror those used throughout most of Bordeaux and include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Carmenère, and Petit Verdot. (For serious wine students: the five sub-appellations of the Côtes de Bordeaux AOC are: Cadillac, Castillon, Sainte Foy, Francs, and Blaye.)

The man and the car: In 1683, a fascinating character named Antoine Laumet left his home in France and arrived at Port Royal—the then-capital of Acadia/New France (and modern-day Nova Scotia, Canada). Upon his arrival in North America, he declared himself Antoine de la Mothe, écuyer, sieur de Cadillac and embarked upon several decades worth of escapades, serving at various times as an explorer, cartographer, merchant, and officer of the French Navy. In 1701, he helped to establish Fort Pontchartrain du Détroit on the north bank of the Detroit River. The fort became part of the modern city of Detroit, Michigan.

For many generations, Laumet—under his assumed nickname, Cadillac— was hailed as a hero (or at least, a founding father of sorts). A French High School in Ontario was named after him, the Cadillac Line on the Montreal Metro bears his name, as does Cadillac Mountain in Maine. Cadillac—the famous American Car Brand, headquartered in Detroit—was indeed named after him, and the original crest of the Cadillac Brand was modeled after his self-created amorial bearings (“family” coat of arms).

Postscript—and now we know: It has come to light that Antoine Laumet/Mssr. Cadillac was not quite the hero he was once believed to be. It has been revealed that he frequently abused his power; was abrasive (to say the least); traded heavily in fur, alcohol, and other products to the detriment of the First Nations; and was most likely involved in some of the earliest instances of the slave trade in North America. Le sigh.

Photo of the Château de Cadillac by Fabien Lotte via Wikimedia Commons

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Confusion Corner

Five Fast Facts about the Bay of Biscay

January 8, 2025 1 Comment

Biarritz (France)

If you are a wine student who has studied Bordeaux, you’ve heard of the Bay of Biscay. If you have dreamed of traveling to the resort town of Biarritz, you’ve heard of the Bay of Biscay.  If you are a sailor who likes a challenge, you’ve heard of the Bay of Biscay. If you are interested in learning more, read on for five fast facts about the Bay of Biscay!

#1: The name and the place: The Bay of Biscay is a portion of the Atlantic Ocean located off the west coast of France and the northern coast of Spain. It stretches from Point Penmarch (a small peninsula in Brittany’s Finistère department) in the north to Cape Ortegal (a headland on the shores of A Coruña, Galicia) in the south. It is named for the province of Biscay—a sub-region of Basque Autonomous Community of Spain (Comunidad Autónoma del País Vasco).

If you sailed from Point Penmarch to Cape Ortegal (you might want to consult item #5 before doing so), you would cover 360 miles/580km; if you drove the coast, you would cover 914 miles/1,475 km and pass through the cities of Nantes, Bordeaux, Bayonne, San Sebastian, and Bilbao.

#2: It’s a bay…it’s a gulf…it’s a sea: The term Bay of Biscay is used mostly by English Speakers. In France, this area is known as the Golfe de Gascogne (Gulf of Gascony), and many Spanish speakers know it as the Golfo de Vizcaya (Gulf of Biscay/Vizcaya). In Spain, the waters just off the coast of Northern Spain (stretching east to the French city of Bayonne) are known as the Mar Cantábrico (Cantabrian Sea).

  • For the geo-curious: Terms such as bay, gulf, and sea are loosely defined. However, according to the National Geographic Education Resource Library:
    • A bay is any body of water partially surrounded by land.
    • A gulf is a portion of the ocean that penetrates land. (As such, the terms bay and gulf are largely interchangeable.) While there are some exceptions (such as the Bay of Bengal), in common use a gulf is larger than a bay.
    • Sea is a broad term that may be applied to more than 50 different types of water formations; this term is typically reserved for bodies of salt water.

#3: The Rennell Current: Several ocean currents flow through the Bay of Biscay, all of which are considered branches of the Gulf Stream. The Gulf Stream—named for its source (the Gulf of Mexico, at 20°N)—carries warm water northward and eventually reaches the northern coast of Europe. The portion of the current flowing closest to the coast in the Bay of Biscay is known as the Rennell Current, named for James Rennell (1742–18300, a British geographer and oceanographer who studied and mapped many ocean currents. It is estimated that the Rennell Current can have a warming effect of up to 4°(F) on the areas along the coast of France.

#4: The triangle of fog: Fog can show up at any time and just about any place on the Bay of Biscay, but it is an almost daily occurrence during late spring and all through summer, particularly in the southwest portion of the bay.  This “triangle of fog” typically forms over the deepest water in the bay and can extend inland along the northern coast of Spain (Galicia–Asturias–Cantabria—Basque Country) for several miles.On th

On the coast in Deba (Basque Country, Spain)

#5: The shelf and the shallow: The Bay of Biscay has a long history of shipwrecks, rough water, and tumultuous storms. During the winter months, areas of low pressure (unstable air masses/depressions) track into the bay via the Gulf Stream and are easily energized into fierce thunderstorms, much to the dismay of anyone caught on the open water.  At times, these thunderstorms are met with winds from the east and this clash of wind and rain can cause the water to churn “like a washing machine.” In addition, the continental shelf extends over a large portion of the bay, resulting in shallow water and rough seas that can occur during all types of weather.  Click here to see a detailed map of the continental shelf in the Bay of Biscay. 

Here’s to the Bay of Biscay! The next time you raise a glass of Muscadet, Cognac, Txakolina, Sidra de Asturias, or Bordeaux…remember to pay homage to the influence of the Bay of Biscay…whether it be storms or fog or ships that made it through.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Five Fast Facts, WineGeo

It’s Baffling…Bonarda (and Friends)

December 4, 2024 Leave a comment

Bonarda is baffling. One grape—Bonarda Piemontese—may be considered the Original Bonarda or the True Bonarda…and yet there are quite a few other distinctly different grapes that (at least sometimes) go by the same name. These include Croatina, Douce Noir, and Uva Rara. Let’s take a closer look and try to unravel the mystery of Bonarda.

Bonarda Piemontese: Native to Italy’s Piedmont region, Bonarda Piemontese has been linked with the area around Turin since the 1790s. This heritage suggests that Bonarda Piemontese is the Original Bonarda and most likely the first grape to use the moniker.

Bonarda Piemontese is very sparsely planted—the latest statistics count just 540 acres/218 ha planted in Piedmont. The grape—typically used in red blends—is specifically mentioned and allowed for use in a few of the appellations of northwest Piedmont, including Colli Tortonesi DOC and Pinerolese DOC. (Several other Piedmont appellations allow for the use of Bonarda; but the regulations are unclear as to which specific version of Bonarda is intended.)

According to the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC), Bonarda Piemontese has up to 14 synonyms; of these, the ones that make the most sense include Bonarda di Asti, Bonarda di Chieri, and Bonarda Nero. In red blends, it is appreciated for its color, freshness, and ability to add a bit of softness to a wine otherwise full of edgy (often Nebbiolo-derived) tannin. If you ever happen to stumble across a varietal Bonarda Piemontese, you could expect to find a smooth, soft-tasting wine with floral aromas and fresh, fruity flavors.

Croatina (Bonarda Rovescala): Croatina is a dark-skinned red grape believed to be native to the Oltrepò Pavese area of Lombardy. It is here—in this area named after the town of Pavia across the Po—that the Croatina grape is often referred to as Bonarda Rovescala (after the tiny town of Rovescala), or simply Bonarda.

The name Croatina means Croatian Girl, and for many years it was assumed that the grape was native to the Primorska Hrvatska (Coastal Region) of Croatia. While it would have been a short trip indeed from Croatia to Northern Italy, it is now considered doubtful that the grape originated in Croatia.

What is known is that there are currently close to 8,100 acres/3,300 ha of Croatina grown throughout Northern Italy, where it is known to produce richly hued (purple/blue), mildly tannic wines with aromas of red cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and sweet spices.

Croatina is allowed for use in more than a dozen AOCs across Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, and Veneto. These include Oltrepò Pavese DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, and Colline Novaresi DOC (among others). It is also used in the Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese DOC, which is required to contain a minimum of 85% Croatina.

Douce Noire (Bonarda Argentina): Douce Noire is a minor French grape, believed to be native to the Savoie Region and still planted in small amounts in this mountainous area of eastern France. In other parts of France, it is more commonly referred to as Corbeau (meaning crow, and likely referring to its dark black color).

Douce Noire is also planted—under the name Charbono—in some parts of California, particularly in Napa where it was once a specialty of the Inglenook Winery. It is believed that the grape was originally brought to California by Italian immigrants who may have introduced it as Charbonneau (a name once used in eastern France).

It is, however, Argentina where Douce Noire really shines; at last count there were over 46,000 acres/19,000 ha of Douce Noire planted in Argentina—mainly in Mendoza and San Juan. In Argentina— where it is known as (you guessed it) Bonarda—Douce Noire is used to produce red blends and fruity, easy-to-drink reds and rosés typically available at a good (value) price. It is unclear how the name Bonarda came to be used in Argentina, but it is likely that when it first arrived, the grape was thought to be of Italian origin. It has been suggested that the grape be referred to as Bonarda Argentina to avoid (further) confusion.

Uva Rara (Bonarda Novarese): Uva Rara is thought to be native to northern Italy (Piedmont and Lombardy), where it currently accounts for 1,500 acres/600 ha of vines. The name translates to rare grape and is believed to refer to the small number of grapes in each bunch rather than rarity in use.

Uva Rara is typically used in red wine blends; it can soften the tannic edge of Nebbiolo and add color and depth to wines based on Barbera or Croatina. You may find a splash of Uva Rara in the wines of the Ghemme DOCG, Gattinara DOCG, Lessona DOC, or Oltrepò Pavese DOC (among others). In addition, it is allowed for use as a varietal wine in the Colline Novaresi DOC

While you are on the lookout of these wines, be alert…you may experience a sighting of Bonarda. If you’ve read this far, you should be not at all surprised to learn that in these parts, Uva Rara is sometimes referred to as Bonarda; specifically, Bonarda Novarese.

TL/DR: Croatina, Douce Noir, and Uva Rara are sometimes referred to as Bonarda; however, they are all distinct grape varieties and not identical to nor related to Bonarda Piemontese.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Grape Invaders, Wine Class with Miss Jane

Can She Pair a Pumpkin Pie?

November 24, 2024 2 Comments

It is that time of year once again and everyone is talking about wine and Thanksgiving. For those of you who follow along, you know that the wine world has gone a bit crazy lately on the subject of food and wine. Some folks say there is just no such thing as food and wine pairing, and you should just serve what people like. Who can argue with that?

And then there is the crowd that insists that certain wines pair with certain foods and other pairings are just a disaster. Well, there’s something to be said for that as well.

So here is my latest take on the matter. I recently had the pleasure of presenting this information to several classes full of bright-eyed and interested wine students. As such, what follows is basically my outline for my 2024 Thanksgiving Wine and Food Pairing Class, that I call “Can She Pair a Pumpkin Pie”?

For starters, here are some basic concepts concerning food and wine pairing, and how they relate to our very American, very complex Thanksgiving Day feast.

#1: Never forget: Turkey is like Switzerland! What I mean by this is that turkey is about as neutral in taste and flavor as it gets, so in theory…. turkey should pair well with just about any wine.

#2: If you have bubbles, you’ll have no troubles. In other words, if you’d rather just not deal with any of these concepts or (what we used to call) rules, just serve bubbly and you’ll be fine. Bubbles just do not hit the palate as hard as other wines and simplify the entire match-up/meet-up between food and wine.

#3: You don’t pair to protein—you pair to preparation. This is where we start to get serious. Remember how we said turkey is neutral? Well, most proteins are…. before you cook them. So, the turkey (or chicken or cod) is not so important in the food and wine dance, but the way you cook them might make a huge difference. Think of the difference between grilled chicken, poached chicken, barbequed chicken, chicken piccata, and chicken with apricot sauce. In all of these instances, it is the preparation (particularly the sauce) that matters more than the protein.

#4: Consider weight, intensity, and complexity. I am going to be a bit contradictory here and say that the overall weight of the meal (basically based on the protein) should be taken into account when pairing your wine. Fish is typically light, so it pairs well with lighter wines. Red meat is typically heavy, so it pairs well with full-bodied wines. Turkey is typically considered medium weight, so most meals wrapped around turkey will pair well with medium-bodied wines (but can do just fine with lighter wines as well). And then there’s complexity…Thanksgiving meals with sauces and gravies and cranberries and marshmallows and green bean casseroles have a lot going on. They are the very definition of complex. This will be explained soon. Just hold on.

 #5: You don’t pair to flavor—you pair to taste. Here’s the deal. Taste components in food (salt, sweet, bitter, acid, etc.) will change the way you perceive the wine. This is consistent and predictable. Whether or not it is “good” (if you like it or not) is up to you. Flavors—such as cherry, berry, veggie, cocoa, and herbal—are pretty forgiving. You can mix and match flavors to your heart’s content. Tastes are where it’s at, so let’s dive into the taste components that are likely to show up at our table on Thanksgiving and see just how they will impact our perception of the wine we serve.

What tastes do we have here?

  • Salty foods at Thanksgiving:
    • Gravy, Stuffing, Green Bean Casserole
    • Potatoes au Gratin, Mashed Potatoes
    • Why this matters?
      • Saltiness is food is very forgiving…it will change wine, but it is almost always for the best.
      • The Food and Wine Truth: Salty food goes with just about any type of wine. Yeah! No worries.
  •  Sweet foods at Thanksgiving:
    • Cranberry Sauce, Sweet Potatoes, Glazed Carrots
    • Creamed Corn, Roasted Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup
    • Dessert! Pumpkin Pie, Pecan Pie
    • Why this matters?
      • Sweetness in food makes wine taste less sweet.
      • The Food and Wine Truth: Sweet food requires sweetness or fruitiness in wine; it will make the wine taste less sweet, less fruity, and more acidic. This is why earthy, dry, and tannic wines are (shall we say) challenging in the Thanksgiving line-up.
  • Acidic foods at Thanksgiving:
    • Cranberry Sauce, Salad/Salad Dressing
    • Relish tray (pickles, olives, tomatoes)
    • Why this matters?
      • Acidity in food makes wine taste less acidic.
      • The Food and Wine Truth: Acidic food requires acidic wine; acidity in food will make the wine taste less acidic. This can make the wine seem “flat” or “dull” if the wine is not super-zingy to begin with.

My ideal Thanksgiving wines? What does all this mean? Well….what we are looking for is a wine that is high in acid with lots of fruity flavors, dry (if red), dry-to-off-dry if white or pink, moderate in tannin (if red), with little or no oak influence. Or just serve bubbles. Need some examples? Of course you do! As such, here is my no-nonsense guide to Thanksgiving Day wine.

  • Bubbles or Rosé:
    • Just about anything goes!
  • White Wine:
    • Off-dry or fruit forward
    • Lively acidity, little or no oak
    • Any weight will work—from light-to medium- and full-bodied
    • Examples:
      • Riesling (dry to off-dry; Washington State, Germany, Austria)
      • Chenin Blanc (dry to off-dry; Vouvray is great!)
      • Gewurztraminer (dry to off-dry)
      • Unoaked Chardonnay
      • Viognier
      • White Rhône-style blends
      • Muscat (dry to off-dry or even sweet!)
  •  Red Wine:
    • (Light to) medium or medium-plus in body
    • Fruit forward, good acidity
    • (Light to) moderate in tannin and bitterness
    • Restrained oak
    • Examples:
      • Beaujolais (or other Gamay-based wine)
      • New World Pinot Noir (Oregon, Sonoma)
      • Old World Pinot Noir (Burgundy, Loire Valley, Germany)
      • Fruit-forward Zinfandel, Malbec, or Merlot
      • Grenache-based Rhône (or Rhône-style) blends
      • Barbera (unoaked)
      • Bonarda (from Argentina)
  • For dessert: something sweet!

 Whatever you choose, make sure it is something you enjoy and have a Happy Thanksgiving!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Wine Class with Miss Jane

Five Fast Facts about Jumilla

November 17, 2024 Leave a comment

The Jumilla (pronounced who-ME-ah) Denominación de Origen (DO)—a wine region tucked between Murcia and Castille-La Mancha inland from the Mediterranean Coast of Spain—is sometimes called Spain’s best-kept secret. While secrets are fun, it might be high time to give this ancient and hard-working wine region its turn in the spotlight.

Read on to learn five fast facts about the Jumilla DO!

photo via: jumilla.wine/en/our-vines

#1: Gnarly Old Vines: Like its neighbors, the Jumilla DO is heavily focused on Monastrell. Monastrell—as the sturdy red Mourvèdre grape variety is known in Spain—accounts for over 80% of the vineyard plantings in the region.

Vines were established in the area over 2,500 years ago and due to the unique combination of soil and climate, the region is home to Europe’s largest collection of old-vine Monastrell…many vines are over 90 years old.

#2: Altitude High and Limestone Deep: The Jumilla DO has an arid but beautiful climate. It can be described as a rugged-and-hot Continental climate with some sunny Mediterranean influence closer to the coast. The area typically receives less than 12 inches of rainfall while enjoying over 3,000 hours of sunshine a year. Elevation also plays a role, with the majority of Jumilla’s vineyards planted at relatively high altitudes ranging from 1,150 feet to 2,625 feet asl. The mountainsides provide excellent drainage, fantastic capture of the sunlight (in the southern exposures), and a great diurnal temperature fluctuation. Underneath its high sky, the area’s soils are diverse but dominated by cool limestone bedrock topped with volcanic soils, gravel, sand and clay. These well-drained soils require the vines to dig deep in a search for water and help the vines to develop thick, structural roots—a key component in the long lifespan of many of these vines.

photo via: jumilla.wine/en/our-vines

#3: Rare Rootstock (Un-grafted Vines): Jumilla avoided Phylloxera (the dreaded pest that decimated the vineyards of Europe—and later the world—beginning in the late 19th century) for a long time. While the pest was (eventually) discovered in the area in 1989, by this time the world had learned a lot about how to handle it. As such, many of Jumilla’s ancient vines are un-grafted and remain planted on their original vinifera rootstock. This contributes to the unique character and authenticity of these wines and their rich, varietally-specific flavors. 

#4: Focused on Red (but that’s not all): While the area is heavily focused on red wines and Monastrell, it produces small amounts of white wine (based on a range of grape varieties including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Airén, Macabeo, and Malvasía) as well as some crisp rosé and late harvest/dessert wines. Rosé and red blends may contain Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah in addition to Monastrell.  In addition, a variety of aging regimes—from no aging at all to a quick nap in stainless steel to extended stays in oak—are used throughout the region. It’s a bountiful buffet of vinous goodness. 

Map of the Jumilla DO by Té y Kriptonita via Wikimedia Commons

#5: Jumilla Monastrell—Rich, Rustic, Rambunctious Red: Jumilla Monastrell is the big, bold red wine of your dreams. Look for high aromatic intensity (the aromas jump out of the glass), lots of red and black fruit flavors (blackberry, cherry, strawberry, red currant, and black plum) supported by some florality (think dried wild flowers), minerality (sniff the air after a good soaking rain), and dried herbs. Flavors of coffee and cocoa/chocolate often show up on the mid-palate. Oak-aged wines may also have some underlying sweet spice aromatics (licorice, nutmeg, cinnamon, and clove). No matter what the aging regime, this should be a rich, complex, and tannic wine with a loooooooong finish.

Leading producers of Jumilla DO include Ramón Izquierdo, Egobodegas, and Bodegas Juan Gil.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marocs, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Travels in Wine World

Five Fast Facts about the Edna Valley AVA

November 3, 2024 Leave a comment

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer

I am teaching a wine and food pairing class this afternoon, which just happens to feature a lovely Pinot Noir from the Edna Valley. As such, today is a great day to look at five fast facts about the Edna Valley AVA!

#1: It’s named after a town: The Edna Valley AVA—located in California’s San Luis Obispo County—is named after the rural town of Edna (population: 193). Edna was founded in the 1880s by a dairyman Edgar Steele.

#2: Time and place: The Edna Valley AVA was established in 1982 as a sub-appellation of California’s larger Central Coast AVA. At this time, it was the first sub-appellation to be established in San Luis Obispo County. Other AVAs in San Luis Obispo later followed, including several which are much better-known than the Edna Valley; these include the Paso Robles AVA (and her 12 sub-appellations), the Arroyo Grande AVA , York Mountain, and the Templeton Gap. The Edna AVA became a sub-appellation of the San Luis Obispo Coast (SLO Coast) AVA once it was established in 2022. If you are hanging out in the Edna Valley AVA, you can practically wave “hello” to your friends at Cal Poly and drive the 5 miles to Pismo Beach in about 10 minutes. The Edna Valley AVA is often discussed in tandem with its neighbor-to-the-immediate south, the Arroyo Grande Valley AVA.

#3: It’s a cool-climate paradise: The Edna Valley AVA extends along a low-lying northwest-southeast canyon tucked into Santa Lucia Mountains.  The western edge of the Edna Valley AVA is located just about 7 miles from the coast and is situated at the southeast end of the Los Osos Valley. The Los Osos Valley extends all the way to Morro Bay and helps to keep the area cool—and only moderately sunny—by siphoning an influx of ocean breezes and maritime fog down into Edna Valley. Combined, these influences provide the Edna Valley AVA with an overall cool climate and a super-long growing season (some say it has the longest growing season of all of California).

#4: Agriculture is well-established: Many successful agricultural endeavors were established in the Edna Valley in the 19th century. These included some viticulture (Mission grapes) as well as dairy farms, orchards (apple, pear, and citrus) and oat and barley farms. These businesses thrived well into the 1970s, when vinifera-based viticulture and winemaking caught on.

#5: Come for the Pinot, stay for the Chardonnay: Accounting for just over 30% of total vineyard plantings, Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape variety in the Edna Valley AVA. Chardonnay—planted in about 28% of the vineyards—comes in second place. Other notable varieties include Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, Pinot Gris, and Viognier. This is a gorgeous area for wine tourism and tasting (and don’t forget a quick detour to the beach). Welcoming wineries located in the Edna Valley AVA include Tolosa Winery, Saucelito Canyon, and Wolff Vineyards.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Five Fast Facts

Five Fast Facts about Mencía

April 12, 2024 Leave a comment

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Mencía is a red grape variety grown mainly in northern Spain with additional plantings in central Portugal. It is known for producing nicely acidic, moderately tannic, and delightfully flavorful red wines.

If that is all that you know about Mencía, you are doing pretty well! However, if you’d like to learn a few more fascinating facts about Mencía, please read on!

#1: It is pronounced “Men-thee-ah.”

#2: It was once thought that Mencía was the same grape as—or closely related to—Cabernet Franc. However, modern DNA testing has proven that Mencía and Cabernet Franc are not particularly closely related. Mencía is, however, identical to a Portuguese grape known as Jaen—aka Jaen du Dão. It is possible that Mencía is native to the north of Spain and spread from there to Portugal’s Dão Region—perhaps via pilgrims trekking home from Santiago de Compostela. However, it is also possible that it originated in the Dão and later made its way to Spain.

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#3: These days, Mencía is best-known as the main grape of Spain’s Bierzo DO (located in the region of Castilla y León), where it accounts for nearly 75% of the vine acreage. Mencía is also grown in Galicia (Spain) in the Valdeorras DO, Monterrei DO, and Ribeira Sacra DO. In Portugal, it is grown in the Dão, Lisboa, and Beira Interior Regions.

#4: In the not-too-distant past, Mencía was primarily grown in the fertile, rain-abundant plains and valleys of Portugal and Galicia. These plantings produced high yields, which were in turn used to produce large volumes of high-acid, fruity, quaffable wines often compared to certain lovable-but-not-serious versions of Beaujolais. As these things usually go, there certainly were a handful of quality-minded producers all along, and the idea of ultra-high quality Mencía was fully realized when—in the 1990s—Alvaro Palacios came to town. Palacios, already famous for creating ultra-high-quality wines in Priorat, began to produce Bierzo DO wines from 40-to-60-year-old Mencía vines grown on the well-drained soils of the area’s hillsides. The resulting wines, now produced by Descendientes de J. Palacios, are rich, concentrated, serious wines (including some single-vineyard bottlings that can fetch prices of $500 a bottle or more). Other top producers of hillside-grown Mencía include Dominio de Tares, Raùl Pérez, and Castro Ventosa (whose holdings include a pre-phylloxera Mencía vineyard planted on the only sandy soils to be found in Bierzo).

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#5: Quaffable wines produced from the Mencía grape variety will be pleasant enough and have a nice cherry-red color, good acidity, and moderate tannins as well as aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate with some floral undertones. Lower-yield, higher-quality Mencía can show all of the above as well as hints of licorice, black pepper, and a whiff of minerality—often described as a “gravel-like scent”. These wines can be deep red/violet in color, rich in meaty tannins, and as age-worthy as the finest Pinot Noir.

According to the latest figures, there are about 25,000 acres (10,100 ha) of Mencía in Spain, as well as about 7,000 acres (2,835 ha) in Portugal.

References/for further information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Five Fast Facts, Grape Invaders Tagged with ,

Five Fast Facts about Saperavi

March 22, 2024 Leave a comment

In one of the most extreme and impressive examples of everything old is new again that I have ever seen, the Saperavi grape is having a moment in the spotlight. Read on to learn more about the modern incarnation of this most ancient grape!

#1—It is a true Georgia native: Georgia (the country) has been making wine for over 8,000 years and is fittingly referred to as “the birthplace of wine.” With all that time for the vines to adapt and co-mingle, it should come as no surprise that over 500 specific grape varieties are native to the area. While most of these 500+ grapes are still thriving, the two most widely planted grapes of the country are Saperavi (our hero), and Rkatsiteli (a white grape that is both the most widely planted in Georgia and also one of the leading grapes throughout the Caucasus and Eastern Europe).

#2—What is a teinturier? Saperavi is a teinturier: A teinturier is a rare type of red wine grape that has reddish-pinkish colored flesh in addition to the red-blue-black-purple of the skin. Most red grapes—as wine students certainly know—contain white/greyish pulp, which is why maceration (contact with the grape skins) during fermentation is required to produce a wine with a hue on the pink–red–purple spectrum. Other teinturiers—in addition to Saperavi—include Alicante Bouschet and Chambourcin.

#3—Saperavi is to dye for: All that color—the tinted juice as well as the thick, anthocyanin-rich, deep-almost-black color of the skin—means that Saperavi is often used to kick up the color in red wine blends. As such, it makes total sense that the name of the grape is derived from a Georgian word meaning paint, dye, or place of color.

#4—Everything (Saperavi) old is (Saperavi) new again: These days, Saperavi has significant plantings in Ukraine, Moldova, Armenia, Russia, Bulgaria, and Australia. It has even spread to the Finger Lakes AVA in New York State. It is the leading red grape of Georgia’s well-known Kakheti PDO and is planted throughout many of the other wine regions of the country. In addition to its well-known inky, dark color, rich tannins, and lively acidity, Saperavi-based wines often show aromas of black fruit (dark berries and black currants), sweet spices (nutmeg and cinnamon), tobacco, cocoa, and roasted coffee beans.

#5—Saperavi has a son (or a daughter?): Saperavi is—along with Severny (a complex Vitis amurensis hybrid)—a parent! The result of this pairing—accomplished in the laboratory of Ya Potapenko at the Russian Center for Viticulture and Winemaking in Novocherkassk—is known as Saperavi Saverny and referred to as Northern Saperavi. Northern Saperavi is very cold tolerant (which makes sense for a grape bred to be grown in the Riostov region Russia) is known to produce highly tannic, age-worthy wine. Often blended with its parent grape (Saperavi), the wine thus produced often shows a fruity and herbaceous character.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Five Fast Facts

Sweet Secrets of the Northern Rhône (the Misfits Series)

March 2, 2024 Leave a comment

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The 30-mile (72-km)-long stretch from Vienne to Valence in France’s Northern Rhône Valley is famous for its sturdy, Syrah-dominant red wines. Just whispering the word Hermitage (or Cornas or Côte-Rôtie) is enough to make a red wine lover smile. Equally well-known—albeit produced in much smaller amounts—are the fruity, floral, and powerful white wines of Condrieu and Château-Grillet (made from 100% Viognier). The area also produces sparkling wines down along its southern edge in the Saint-Péray AOC. While the Marsanne and Roussanne-based bubblies of Saint-Péray may seem somewhat out-of-place in the rough-and-tumble Northern Rhône, they are nevertheless well-known and acknowledged among well-informed enthusiasts and students of wine.

However, there is a secret whispered among the steep, hillside vines of the Northern Rhône, and you can hear it if you really try. It sounds like this—sweet wines are made here too. You may need to tread deep into the cellars to find these wines, but they are here: Hermitage Vin de Paille and Condrieu Doux.

The Condrieu AOC—located towards the northern end of the Northern Rhône, just south of the Côte-Rôtie—is a white wine-only appellation producing richly flavored and -textured wines from 100% Viognier. Like most Viognier-based wines, Condrieu AOC tends to be wildly aromatic, showing perfume-like scents of fruit (apricot, peach, tangerine, mango, fruit cocktail); flowers (honeysuckle, rose petals, jasmine) and baking spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, anise).

It’s a little-known fact, but (like many French wines), Condrieu was historically produced as a sweet wine. Harvest would traditionally begin on All Saint’s Day (November 1). It was not until the mid-1950s that the leading style of Condrieu shifted to the heady, dry wines that make up the majority of the production today.

In keeping with tradition, some wineries in Condrieu still produce sweet wines (alongside their dry versions). Cave Yves Cuilleron produces a sweet (11% RS) Condrieu, Condrieu Ayguets Doux. According to their website, the south-facing aspect of the vineyard promotes over-ripeness, and the grapes (harvested in stages from mid-October to mid-November) were at least partially affected by botrytis in the 2018 vintage. The resulting sweet wine was matured for eight months in oak barriques and emerged with “notes of candied fruits, honey, wax and mild spice.”

Other examples of sweet Condrieu include Domaine du Monteillet’s Condrieu doux Candice (made from 50% botrytized grapes), Domaine Christophe Pichon Cuvée Patience, and E. Guigal Condrieu Luminescence (produced only a few times over the history of the estate using ultra-over-ripe grapes).

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The Hermitage AOC—located on a famous south-facing, terraced hillside towering above the curving Rhône River and the town of Tain-Hermitage—is well-known for its sturdy, fruity-but-earthy Syrah-dominant red wines. The red wines of the region allow for the use of up to 15% (combined) Marsanne and Roussanne grapes, and white wines—based mainly on the Marsanne grape variety and known for being dry, sturdy, and long-lived—are produced as well.

Viticulture in Hermitage can be traced back thousands of years, and many people believe this hillside to be the actual—or perhaps just spiritual—birthplace of the Syrah variety. Vines were tended, and wine was produced in the area as far back as Roman times, when the local wine was referred to as the “wines of Vienne.” Among these ancient wines were sweet wines made from grapes allow to dry (raisinate) on straw mats after harvest. This style of wine—now known in this area as Vin de Paille—is being produced again, now under the auspices of the Hermitage AOC.

According to the rules and regulations, Hermitage Vin de Paille may be produced using the Marsanne and/or Roussanne grape variety. The grapes—which may be picked at a “typical” level of sugar ripeness—are left to dry on straw mats for a minimum of 45 days and until they have a minimum must weight of 350 g/l. While not required, the rich, sweet juice is typically barrel fermented and oak aged for several years before bottling. The resulting wines are intended to be very aromatic—redolent of candied fruit—with good levels of sugar and alcohol, and very well poised for long aging.

M. Chapoutier has—since 1990—occasionally produced a Hermitage Vin de Paille; the 2009 vintage was made from 100% Marsanne grapes that had been dried on straw mats for two months before pressing. The wine produced in 2009—which the winery advises may continue to successfully age for up to 50 years—has almost 15% abv and 10.5% residual sugar. The wine (as reported by the estate) has a deep, golden yellow color and intense aromas of candied fruits and honey. It is suggested to be served with fruit desserts…or as a dessert by itself.

Sweet wines of the Northern Rhône…they are fascinating, ancient, and true misfits, but secret no more!

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of San Marcos, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under The Misfits Series

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