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Excellent Adventures in Wine and Spirits Education
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July 1, 2013 2 Comments
This morning I set about to research the wine region of Priorat for a blog post. I already knew the basics of the region, such as the fact that it is one of Spain’s two DOCa wines, the main grape variety is Garnacha Tinta, and the area came to international attention in the 1990s.
Wikipedia (I know, not the best reference but in this case, just a starting point) also had this to say, “The area is characterized by its unique terroir of black slate and quartz soil known locally as Llicorella.” I already knew that the soil in Priorat is mainly Llicorella…at least I knew the word, and could have guessed it correctly on a multiple choice test. But being in a Monday sort of contemplative mood, I wondered if I really understood Llicorella. Of course, I didn’t. So I set about to deconstruct Llicorella.
First of all…just what exactly is slate? Slate is a fine-grained, foliated, homogeneous metamorphic rock derived from sedimentary rock composed of clay or volcanic ash. It is the finest grained foliated metamorphic rock.
Metamorphic Rock? Metamorphic rocks are created from the transformation of existing rock types. Metamorphism means “change in form.” Rocks under the earth’s surface change form by being subjected to heat, generally temperatures from 300° – 400°F, which can cause both physical and chemical changes in the rock itself.
Sedimentary Rock? Sedimentary rocks are formed by the solution of mineral and organic particles within bodies of water. Sedimentation is the name for several different processes that cause mineral particles and organic particles to settle and accumulate first into a dissolved solution and later into sediment. Sediment is then transported to dry land by water, wind, or glaciers, or is left behind when the bodies of water dry up. With time, the slushy sediment hardens into rock. Sandstone is probably the most well-known sedimentary rock.
Clay? Clay is a very fine-grained soil type made up of very fine minerals such as aluminium phyllosilicates, iron, magnesium, and a bunch of other chemicals I have never heard of. The minerals that make up clay soil are the result of weathering…the breakdown of rocks, soils, and minerals through contact with air, water, and living creatures.
Volcanic Ash? Volcanic ash is made up of pieces of pulverized rock, minerals, and volcanic glass that are created during volcanic eruptions. Pieces of ash must be less than 2 mm in diameter – larger fragments are referred to as cinders or blocks. At least this one I can understand!
Foliated? There are two types of metamorphic rocks: foliated rocks and non-foliated rocks. Foliated metamorphic rocks, such as schist and slate, have a “layered” appearance that has been produced by exposure to heat and directed pressure. Non-foliated metamorphic rocks such as marble and quartz do not have the “layered” appearance.
And what is quartz? Quartz is the second most abundant mineral in the Earth’s continental crust, after feldspar. There are many different varieties of quartz, several of which are semi-precious gemstones. Quartz is the most common element of sand and sandstone and is used in glassmaking. Quartz is almost immune to weathering and is a component of granite and other igneous rocks.
Aha- that’s why sand is coarse (quartz doesn’t “weather”) and clay is fine (its made up of materials that do weather or “breakdown”).
I think I’ll stop there. But for those of you who are curious, igneous rocks are rocks that are formed by the cooling and solidification of lava or magma. Granite and obsidian are igneous rocks.
So now, when someone says, “Llicorella is a unique soil made up of black slate and quartz,” what do you know?
Sources (in addition to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Priorat_(DOQ)):
http://www.quartzpage.de/index.html
http://www.turismepriorat.org/en
http://www.in-spain.info/top20/spanish-white-wine-priorat.htm
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas missjane@prodigy.net
May 2, 2013 Leave a comment
So…what do lentils, honey, and hay have in common? How about we throw in chicken, lavender oil, and walnuts? Any ideas? Ok…lets add 43 types of Cheese and 376 styles of wine. Now you get it, right???
All of these products are Appellation d’Origine Protégée, or AOP-protected products from France. (Formerly known as or Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, or AOC-protected products, which is still in use, along with the updated, all-EU version AOP . Got that?)
All of you wine people out there know all about AOC laws, how confusing they can be to wine newbies, how every European Country has it own version (DOC, DO, OPAP and so forth) and how very recently the EU attempted to bring all 27 (soon to be 28) member countries under the same umbrella by creating the all-inclusive umbrella of the AOP. Or we know just enough to get by!
A recent textbook editing assignment (about 2 months worth) has led me to be a bit more of an AOP/AOC expert than I care to be, but I must admit I have learned an awful lot along the way. Did you know, for instance, that France currently has 43 AOP Cheeses? Roquefort, they say, is the stinky cheese that started it all, centuries ago. It seems that In 1411 King Charles VI (known as “The Beloved” in his youth and “The Mad” as he got older) granted a monopoly for the ripening of the region’s sheep’s milk cheese to the people of Roquefort-sur-Soulzono. To this day, according to AOP laws, only those cheeses aged in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon may bear the name Roquefort.
The AOP Lentils, Lentils-le-Puy-en-Velay, I actually know from my chef days. Widely referred to as “French Green Lentils” these AOP lentils are in great demand all over the world due to their high protein content, unique flavor, and ease of cooking. All of these qualities derive from the thin soil of the town of Lu-Puy-en-Velay in the south-central France.
About that AOP Hay…Foin de Crau is an AOP designated Hay from the La Crau Region of Provence. This is special hay due to the diversity of the grasslands where it grows, its rich mineral content, its digestibility and good flavor. Admit it: that doesn’t sound that much different from a wine description. If you would like, you can buy some Foin de Crau here.
The AOP honey, Miel de Sapin de Vosges, sounds amazing. If ever there was a product produced by buzzing little insects that deserves the protection of the French government, this is it. “Sapin” is actually a type of fir tree that grow in the Vosges Mountain region of eastern France. This dark brown, luscious honey is sometimes called “Silver Fir Honey,” and while there are several AOP honeys, this type is produced only in the Vosges.
My AOC/AOP research revealed some fascinating information on wine, as well. For starters, there is a database called e-Bacchus that lists the current regulatory status of all the wines in the EU…from PDO to PGI and using traditional terms as well. According to e-Bacchus, there are exactly 376 PDO wines in France. Click here for a PDF of List of French AOP from E-Bacchus . That should keep you busy for a while.
If you would like to research Walnuts from Périgord, Lavender Oil from Haute-Provence, Chickens from Bresse or any of the thousands of other AOP-protected items in the EU, just click here for the database. Just make sure you have plenty of free time. This is very interesting stuff.
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas…missjane@prodigy.net
March 9, 2013 2 Comments
Last month (February 17, 2013 to be exact), the Chianti Classico Consorzio approved the creation of a new top-tier classification of Chianti Classico DOCG wines to be known as “Gran Selezione.” The term is expected to be approved by the Ministry of Agriculture, and if so, will be a quality level “above” Chianti Classico Riserva.
It is estimated that approximately 7% of the production of Chianti Classico will be eligible for the designation. The first wines eligible to display the term on their label will be those from the 2010 vintage.
If you’ve been following my study guide on the wines of the Veneto (or even if you’ve been following Italian wines at all) you know that Italian wines are already surrounded by a jungle of regulatory and legislative classifications. Luckily, this in no way affects how delicious, delightful, and affordable they can be!
In the interest of “keeping it simple.” here is a quick look at how this new branch of the Chianti family tree fits in with its brothers and sisters:
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG:
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG:
Chianti Classico DOCG:
All versions of Chianti Classico must be a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, produced from grapes grown within the 100-square miles of the designated Chianti Classico region. Up to 10% Canaiolo may used, along with up to 15% other varieties, of which Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot are often used. Yields are limited to 3 tons per acre.
By the way, not everyone is thrilled about this new development. A quick websearch on “New Chianti Classification” revealed a wide range of opinions up to and including disgust(!), bewilderment(!), and we are not amused(!). Of course, many people also think it is a great idea, intended to showcase and honor the highest level of production of the region. We will be watching how this plays out in the future!
My Source (in Italian): http://www.aisitalia.it/chianti-classico-gran-selezione.aspx
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas – missjane@prodigy.net
If you think there is a Bubbly Professor Tuscany Quiz in your future…you are correct!
February 2, 2013 Leave a comment
I love maps, because they make me dream of travel! Someone once said “maps are the foreplay to travel.” I don’t know where I heard that, so I can’t credit the source, but it’s a great line and I wish I had said it first!
Being a wine person, maps also make me dream of wine – or have nightmares about the study of wine.
I think we would all agree that understanding a region’s geography sets the groundwork for really understanding their wines. Note that I said “really understanding” and not just memorizing lists of rivers, towns, and grapes. If you are a regular reader of The Bubbly Professor you know that in my classes, I try to emphasize learning – emphasizing understanding, context, and meaning – as opposed to just “memorizing factoids” or “trying to pass a test.”
In an attempt to help those of you who are studying – and hopefully, really learning – about wine for the CSW Exam or other wine certification, I’ve put together a fun (?) map exercise for France. I’ll give you a blank map and you get to fill in the rest!
If you take some time to do this exercise, trust me, doing some research and referencing a good map will go a long way to your understanding of the geography of France. However, the act of actually drawing in the towns, rivers, mountain ranges and wine regions on the map takes this activity from passive learning (looking at someone else’s work) to active (drawing it yourself) and turns it into a “whole brain learning” experience. Trust me, this exercise will increase your retention and understanding of the geography of France, laying the groundwork for understanding the geography of the wines produced there. Note that I did not say it would be fast or easy, but I guarantee it will be a worthwhile way to spend an evening. (Perhaps a good swap for a night of watching re-runs of Mad Men???)
If you dare, click here to download the So You Think You Know France Exercise. Enjoy the study session, and let’s see just how much we know – or have yet to learn – about the geography of France!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas – missjane@prodigy.net
Bubbly Disclaimer: This is my own personal advice and should not be considered as “official” advice from any school or organization. I hope the materials here on The Bubbly Prof help you out with your wine studies, and that you are successful in your certification endeavors. Cheers!
December 30, 2012 Leave a comment
The Soundbyte: Grenache (technically Grenache Noir) might just be the most popular “wing man” in the world of wine. By that I mean that while Grenache is certainly capable of starring in varietal wines, it is one of the world’s most popular partners in a red wine blend.
In Spain, Grenache is often blended with Tempranillo, Cinsault, and a host of other grapes. Grenache is one of the three amigos (Grenache-Syrah- Mourvèdre) of the Rhône Blend (otherwise known as G-S-M), while also playing a part in some of the more complex (ie., 13-grapes-or-even-more) wines of the Rhône. Grenache is also made into dessert and fortified wines, and makes a world-class rosé.
Typical Attributes of a Grenache-based Wine:
Typical Aromas of a Grenache Based Wine:
Fruity: Blackberry, Blueberry, Strawberry, Cranberry, Currant, Cherry, Raisin, Plum
Spicy: Black Pepper, Menthol, Licorice
Earthy: Wet Earth, Leather, Forest Floor, Bramble, Tobacco, Smoke, Leather
Floral: Roses, Dried Rose Petals, Violet
Oak-Derived: Chocolate, Mocha, Cocoa, Vanilla, Sweet Wood
Where The Best Grenache is Grown:
Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:
Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:
Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas…
December 24, 2012 Leave a comment
The Soundbyte: Sémillon is a golden-skinned white wine grape known primarily for its close association with Sauvignon Blanc, as in the Sauvignon/Sémillon blends of White Bordeaux and its many imitators worldwide. Sémillon is increasingly seen as a stand-alone varietal, particularly in the Hunter Valley Region of Australia, where it seems to have found its “second home.” Sémillon has a well-documented susceptibility to Botrytis and is often made into dessert wines. It is the most widely planted white wine grape in Bordeaux, particularly in Sauternes. Fans of Sémillon like to brag that the most famous dessert wine of all, Château d’Yquem, is 80% Sémillon. Note: outside of France, the grape is often spelled without the accent on the e (Semillon). Both spellings should be considered correct.
Typical Attributes of a Sémillon Based Wine:
Typical Aromas of a Sémillon Based Wine:
Fruity: Apple, Pear, Lemon, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Melon, Fig, Date
Spicy: Saffron, Vanilla, Dried Herb
Vegetal: Green Grass, Asparagus, Bell Pepper
Botrytis Affected Versions: Apricot, Dried Apricot, Quince, Peach, Honey, Pineapple, Vanilla, Butterscotch, Curry
Oaked Versions: Vanilla, Sweet Wood, Toast, Smoke, Oak, Coconut
Where The Best Sémillon is Grown:
Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:
Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:
If your Sémillon-based wine is more “Sauvignon” than “Sémillon” – check out the food pairing advice on the Cheat Sheet for Sauvignon Blanc.
If your Sémillon is botrytis-affected, it will go well with sweet dishes made with honey, cream, apricots, apples, and pears—in addition to pairing beautifully with savory dishes such as blue cheese and foie gras!
Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” of Austin, Texas...missjane@prodigy.net
December 18, 2012 2 Comments
The Soundbyte: It is widely accepted that Sangiovese was well-known to the winemakers of Ancient Rome, and it is suspected that the grape was known in Tuscany as far back as the time of the Etruscans. The grape is still widely grown throughout Central Italy, from Romagna to Lazio, and throughout Italy down to Campania and Sicily.
Outside of Italy Sangiovese is mainly known as the main grape of Chianti, in all its forms, but Italian wine lovers know that it also stars in Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano, Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino, and Sangiovese di Romagna, among many others.
While often used in a blend, Sangiovese is increasingly seen as a stand-along varietal. In addition, it is now being used in blends with “international varieties” such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. You may know these wines as “Super Tuscans”, whose style is now being imitated in other parts of the world.
In a country growing hundreds (if not thousands) of different grapes, Sangiovese reigns as the number one grape varietal in Italy, where it accounts for 10% of the entire wine grape crop.
Typical Attributes of a Sangiovese Based Wine:
Typical Aromas of a Sangiovese Based Wine:
Where The Best Sangiovese is Grown:
Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:
Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:
Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas….
October 22, 2012 5 Comments
The Soundbyte: Tempranillo is a primary red grape for much of Northern and Central Spain, including the famous wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. It is also a key blending grape used in Port—where it often goes by the name Tinta Roriz. It is often said that the name “Tempranillo” is derived from the Spanish word “temprano,” meaning early, and refers to the fact that the grape buds, flowers, and ripens a full two weeks before Spain’s other leading red grape— Garnacha (Grenache).
There is a fantastic old legend that says that Tempranillo ended up in Northern Spain via the Camino de Santiago. According to the legend, Cistercian Monks making the religious pilgrimage from Burgundy to Santiago de Compostela left Pinot Noir cuttings behind at the monasteries around Haro, Burgros, and Logroño. From these vines, the Pinot Noir grape morphed itself into its new surroundings and ended up as the Tempranillo we know now and love. Alas, this tale must remain with us as “just a good story” seeing as recent have shown no such genetic connection between the two cultivars. Tempranillo is, these days, believed to be a native son of Northern Spain.
Typical Attributes of a Tempranillo-based Wine:
Typical Aromas of a Tempranillo-based Wine:
Fruity: Strawberry, Blueberry, Raspberry, Blackberry, Black Currant, Red Stone Fruit, Cherry, Plum, Raisin, Prune
Spicy: Vanilla, Dried Herbs, Clove, Cinnamon
Herbal: Green Herb, Mint, Eucalyptus
Earthy: Wet Earth, Leather, Mineral, Tobacco, Graphite
Oak-Derived: Cedar, Vanilla, Oak, Soft Spice
Where The Best Tempranillo is Grown:
Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:
Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas…missjane@prodigy.net
October 16, 2012 3 Comments
The Soundbyte: Simply stated, Gewürztraminer is an enigma. It is the one wine you either love or hate. The wine has a tendency to have a flavor quite different than what is expected from its rather forward floral, fruit, and spicy aromas; and your first sip can be quite a “shock” to the palate, to say the least! This is not to say it is not a delightful wine; it can be a delicious wine indeed, and in my opinion a fantastic partner for many otherwise hard-to-pair foods.
The French region of Alsace has seen the most success with Gewürtraminer, and the name is obviously German, but the grape’s history began in Italy, somewhere in the Tyrollean Alps, near the village of Tramin in Alto Adige. Like many grapes, Gewürztraminer tends to mutate based in its surroundings, so the grapes themselves may be golden yellow, light pink, or even pinkish-brown and spotted. It also tends to be a difficult vine in the vineyard, being quite susceptible to poor fruit set, frost damage,and certain viral diseases. However, the grapes, with their thick skins and blotchy colors, can attain very high sugar concentrations and those amazing aromas, which can lead to some pretty interesting wines!
Note: outside of Germany, the grape is typically spelled without the umlaut (Gewurztraminer); both spellings should be considered correct.
Typical Attributes of a Gewürztraminer Based Wine:
Typical Aromas of a Gewürztraminer Based Wine:
Fruity: Pear, Lychee, Peach, Apricot, Guava, Pineapple, Passion Fruit, Mango, Grapefruit, Sultana (Golden Raisin)
Floral: Roses, Rose Petal, Gardenia, Carnation, Jasmine, Honeysuckle, Honey, Perfume
Spicy: Ginger, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, White Pepper, Allspice, Clove
Strange but True: Coconut, Pond’s Cold Cream, Cheap Rose Perfume, Nivea Cream, “Cosmetics,” “Old Lady Perfume” (don’t try to deny it), Church Incense, Petroleum, Turpentine, Diesel, Gasoline.
Where The Best Gewürztraminer is Grown:
Food Affinities—Bridge Ingredients:
Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!
The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” of Austin, Texas…missjane@prodigy.net