Wine Geo: The Allier

January 22, 2022 2 Comments

The Allier Department

There is a lot to love about the Allier: it’s a river…it’s a department…it’s the former Duchy of Bourbonnais!

It’s a department: The Allier is a department (political area similar to a county) situated smack-dab in the center of France, within the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Its namesake—the Allier Rive—flows through its center, while the Loire and Cher wind their way to the east and west. The main cites of the Allier Department include Moulins, Vichy, and Montluçon. Much of the Allier department is located on land that once-upon-a-time housed the Duchy of Bourbonnais, and inhabitants are sometimes referred to as Bourbonnais. In addition to over 500 castles, the Allier department is home to forests, ponds, woodlands, pastures, and vineyards. Notable products include Charroux Mustard, Charolais Beef, Tronçais Oak, and wine from the Saint-Pourçain AOC.

It’s a river (a left tributary of the Loire): The Allier River flows north for 262 miles/421 km from its source in the Massif Central to a point about 4 miles/6 km west of the city of Nevers, where it joins the Loire. The point where the Allier joins the Loire is about 26 miles/42 km south of Sancerre.

There are vineyards: The Allier River helps to define several of the wine regions of Central France, with the Saint-Pourçain AOC located right on the Allier River and completely within the Allier Department. The Côtes d’Auvergne AOC—located to the south of Saint-Pourçain in the Puy-de-Dôme Department—is also directly on the river. These two appellations are—quite literally—located very close to the geographic center of France and as such, are sometimes grouped together (with a few others) as the“appellations of Central France.”

For serious wine students only: the other appellations included in the “appellations of Central France” group include the Châteaumeillant, Côte Roannaise, and Côtes du Forez AOCs. Keep in mind that this is an informal grouping and there is no official appellation with a title referring to “Central France.”

There are forests and trees: Oak from the Tronçais Forest (Forêt de Tronçais)—located in the northwest quadrant of the Allier Department—is used to produce some of the most renowned oak barrels in the world. Interestingly, the Tronçais Forest is not part of the primeval (untouched) forest that once covered most of France but was planted in 1670 under the order of Jean Baptiste Colbert—a minister in the court of Louis XIV—to supply the French Navy. These days, the Tronçais Forest is considered one of the principal oak forests of Europe. The forest is largely planted to Sessile Oak (Quercus petraea). The ancient name for Sessile Oak was Tronce, from which the forest derives its name. Other trees in the Tronçais Forest include Scots Pine, Beech, Larch, and Common Oak (Quercus robur).

Sessile Oak trees thrive in high-density plantings, such as those found in the Tronçais Forest. In a high-density forest, the greater competition for water, sunlight, and nutrients causes the trees to grow slowly, with little space between the annual growth rings. This leads to oak (and oak barrels) with a tighter, smoother grain and a lighter transfer of oak-derived flavor to the wine.

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under WineGeo

Confusion Corner: Sacy

January 16, 2022 1 Comment

This is undoubtedly one of the more obscure topics ever to be addressed in Confusion Corner, but nevertheless, it sparked my interest!

Sacy: it’s a grape, it’s a place, it’s a Premier Cru Village in Champagne!

Sacy the grape: Sacy is a rather nondescript white variety, believed to be one of the many offspring of Pinot X Gouis Blanc. It is a high-yield grape known for making lightly flavored, crisply acidic wines with aromas of white flowers, green apples, and yellow pears. Sacy is cultivated mainly in central and northern France—particularly in the Yonne and the surrounding areas between Burgundy and Paris. Plantings of Sacy have declined rather steadily since the 1950’s; while at one time there were close to 700 hectares/1,730 acres planted in France, these days the number is closer to 71 hectares/176 acres.

Sacy-the-grape is allowed to be used in just three of France’s 400-plus AOC wines: Crémant de Bourgogne, Coteaux Bourguignons, and Saint-Pourçain. It is, however, allowed in several of France’s PGI/Vin de Pays appellations, including the Vin de Pays de l’Ardèche, the Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, and the Vin de Pays des Comtés Rhodaniens.

In the Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, Sacy is allowed to be used in just about any amount, provided that at least 30% of the base wine is comprised of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir (in any combination). In the Saint-Pourçain AOC, Sacy is required to comprise at least 20%—but no more than 40%—of the blend, which is dominated (50% to 80%) by Chardonnay.

Sacy can be used without limits in the Coteaux Bourguignons AOC, provided the vines were planted prior to July 31, 2009. One must—however—dig pretty deep in order to find out how Sacy is allowed to be used in the wines of the Coteaux Bourguignons AOC. This factoid is not listed in the “approved varieties” at the top of the appellation’s list of rules and regulations (the Cahier des Charges); but is rather tucked into the fine print of the document (specifically, in Article XI—Measures Transitoires). Domaine Gueguen, located in Chablis, is one of the few wineries to produce a 100% Sacy bottled under the Coteaux Bourguignons AOC.

For some reason, Sacy appears to have taken its name from a village in Champagne. The grape goes by several other names as well, including Aligoté Vert, Plant de Sacy, and Tressallier. Tressallier—a term derived from beyond the Allier—is the name used in the Saint-Pourçain AOC, which just happens to be located to the west of the Allier River.

Sacy the place: Sacy is a small town/commune/village (population: 375) located about an hour-and-a-half drive (heading east/northeast) from Paris. The best place to stay in town (imho) is the beautiful Château de Sacy—built in the mid-1850’s by Pierre Louis Gosset (one of the area’s most famous architects) and proudly standing as one of the few remaining residences built before WWI.

When you are in Sacy-the-small-town, you are smack-dab in the middle of the Champagne District—it is less than a 20-minute drive to Reims—so your obvious choice of activities will involve vineyard-wandering and touring wine estates. Champagne producers located in Sacy include Champagne Wafflart Briet, Blin-Dezautez Gérard, Damien Dumez, and Champagne Duménil. These can all easily be reached from the Château de Sacy (and each other) via taxi—or, if you are feeling fit, you could walk (round-trip, the loop is only about 2.6 km/1.6 miles).

Map of Sacy via Bing Maps

Sacy the Premier Cru Village in Champagne: Sacy (the small town/village) has the honor of being one of the 40-plus Premier Cru villages in Champagne, and one of 25 located in the Montagne de Reims. Sacy is surrounded on three sides by other Premier Cru Villages: Ville-Dommange to the north, Écueil to the south, and Bezannes to the west.

Keep in mind that—however disjointed it may seem…Sacy-the-grape is not allowed to be used in the wines of the Champagne-Sacy Premier Cru AOC (or any other wines of the Champagne District).

Other Sacys: The term “Sacy” is used in other contexts as well. It shows up in the name of a well-regarded Champagne Estate—Louis De Sacy Champagne—located in the town of Verzy (about 19 km/12 miles from Sacy). It may also refer to Antoine Issac Silvestre de Sacy (a French scholar and nobleman, 1758-1838); a Brazilian soccer player (full name: Gustavo Rossi); or as an acronym for “School Age Children and Youth.” Go Sacy!

References/for more information:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Confusion Corner

(A Pound of) the Legendary Fernet-Branca Cure

December 31, 2021 Leave a comment

Paging Doctor Fernet...

Paging Doctor Fernet…

Usually, an ounce of prevention is best. However, at this time of year, perhaps we should just go straight for the cure. For many people, a shot of Fernet-Branca is a lengendary cure—for a long night of drinking, or whatever ails you. While its flavor  has been variously described as “a smack in the face with a eucalyptus branch1” and “a cross between medicine, crushed plants, and bitter mud2,” these are terms of endearment and the taste (once it has been acquired) is crave-worthy.

The legends of Fernet-Branca take many forms, including history, cocktails, secret ingredients, and curative properties. Read on for a few of the legends of Fernet-Branca!

Paging Doctor Branca: Fernet-Branca was invented in Milan in 1845 by Bernadino Branca, a self-taught herbalist. The name “Fernet” comes from one Doctor Fernet—a fictional Swede with whom Branca originally shared credit for the drink, presumably to add authority to his claims of the drink’s health benefits. According to the story, the “renowned liquor” had helped Dr. Fernet and several members of his family to live for over one hundred years.

A Corner on the Saffron Market: Fernet-Branca has been produced using its original recipe since its inception. The exact formula is a trade secret, but is known to contain cinchona bark, bitter orange, aloe, chamomile, myrrh, cardamom, gentian, peppermint, anise, and bay leaves. It is rumored that saffron is also a key ingredient, so much so that the makers of Fernet-Branca have a (rumored) corner on a large percentage of the world’s saffron market.

Tastes like (Poison) Iodine: In 1960, the legendary Broadway actress Betsey Von Furstenberg played a joke on Tony Randall, and “spiked” his on-stage drink with Fernet-Branca. Upon tasting it, Tony believed that he had just swallowed iodine and thought he was being poisoned. Laughing no longer, Ms. Von Furstenberg was suspended from the Actor’s Equity Union for 60 days for her role in the prank.

The Bartender’s Handshake: Fernet’s recent popularity in the United States is attributed to its adoption by bartenders—beginning in San Francisco and soon spreading to Los Angeles, New York, Las Vegas, and other major cities. In these cities, bartenders often end their shift with a quick shot of Fernet—taking advantage of its ability to calm the stomach and the mind. These days, Fernet may be referred to as “the bartender’s handshake,” as a quick shot of Fernet is the preferred first order of many hospitality insiders, and a complimentary shot of Fernet is a typical method of greeting one’s fellow bartenders when they visit your bar.

A New Year’s Toast with Fernet:  The drink’s numerous medicinal claims—which included being prescribed for fever, cholera, intestinal parasites, colds, and menstrual cramps—came in handy in San Francisco during American Prohibition where it was still legal for sale in pharmacies, as a medicine. This was the beginning of the City’s love affair with Fernet, where it has become such a cult favorite that in some bars and restaurants, a midnight toast of Fernet-Branca is raised just before midnight on New Year’s Eve, in lieu of Champagne.

Hanky-Panky: A Fernet-based cocktail known as the Hanky-Panky was invented by in 1903 at the Savoy Hotel in London. One of the bar’s regular customers was an Edwardian Actor named Charles Hawtrey. One night after a performance, Hawtrey came into the bar and asked for something “with a bit of a punch.” The bartender, Ada “Coley” Coleman, created a variation on a martini using gin, sweet vermouth, and a dash of Fernet-Branca. When Hawtrey tasted it, he acclaimed, “By Jove! That is the real hanky-panky!”

1http://www.littledenblog.com/blog/classic-cocktails-the-negroni

2http://www.romefile.com/food-and-drink/fernet-branca.php

References/for further learning:

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

 

Filed under Context is queen

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Sémillon

December 24, 2021 Leave a comment

The Soundbyte: Sémillon is a golden-skinned white wine grape known primarily for its close association with Sauvignon Blanc, as exemplified by the Sauvignon/Sémillon blends of Bordeaux and its many imitators worldwide.  However, Sémillon is increasingly seen as a stand-alone variety—particularly in the Hunter Valley Region of Australia, where it seems to have found its second home.  Sémillon has a well-documented susceptibility to Botrytis and is often made into dessert wines.  It is the most widely planted white wine grape in Bordeaux, particularly in and around Sauternes (the most famous of the botrytis-affected wines of France).  As a matter of fact, the most famous Sauternes of them all—Château d’Yquem—is reportedly 80% Sémillon in most years.

Note: outside of France, the grape is often spelled without the accent on the e (Semillon). Both spellings should be considered correct. 

Typical Attributes of a Sémillon Based Wine:

  • The grapes are hardy in the vineyard and relatively easy to cultivate.  They are fairly resistant to disease, but as luck would have it, are quite susceptible to Botrytis.
  • Sémillon tends to have moderate acidity, which is most likely why it became the world’s best blending partner for Sauvignon Blanc, which tends to scream with acidity.
  • Sémillon tends to have good extract, and a rich, somewhat oily texture or weight—this may be referred to as a waxy character.
  • Varietal Sémillon tends to have medium to high levels of alcohol.
  • Sémillon tends to be low on aromatics when made into a varietal, which is another reason why it does so well with the intensely aromatic Sauvignon Blanc. 
  • Sémillon-based wines are sometimes described as rather “bland” in their youth, but this is one of the rare white wines that can transform with age.  Older versions can take on a hazelnut, toasty richness. Oak aging also helps create a more complex wine and—along with malolactic fermentation—can encourage aromas of butter, cream, vanilla and smoke.
  • An interesting wine-tasting term that is often used to describe Sémillon is lanolin, which is actually a substance found in wool and used in cosmetics (!).  In winespeak the term refers to a smooth, creamy impression that might be considered to opposite of tart or sharp. 

semillon bottlesTypical Aromas of a Sémillon Based Wine:

Fruity:  Apple, Pear, Lemon, Nectarine, Grapefruit, Melon, Fig, Date  

Herbal/Spicy:  Saffron, Vanilla, Dried Herb

Vegetal:  Green Grass, Asparagus, Bell Pepper 

Botrytis-affected Versions:  Apricot, Dried Apricot, Quince, Peach, Honey, Pineapple, Vanilla, Butterscotch, Curry

Oaked Versions:  Vanilla, Sweet Wood, Toast, Smoke, Oak, Coconut

Where The Best Sémillon is Grown:

  • The Southwest of France, particularly Bordeaux, where it most likely has its native home.  Sémillon is the most widely planted white grape in Bordeaux, particularly in Sauternes where it may claim up to 80% of the vineyard property.  Of course, it shares the white Bordeaux blend with Sauvignon Blanc and sometimes a dash of Muscadelle, so it has remained somewhat out of the spotlight. But be sure…Sémillon rules the white Bordeaux world.
  • Australia’s Hunter Valley, which has become Sémillon’s adopted home in much the same way that Malbec has taken to Mendoza. Hunter Valley is a leading producer of 100% varietal Sémillon.
  • In other parts of Australia, Sémillon is used as a blending partner for Chardonnay as well as in Bordeaux-inspired Sémillon-Sauvignon Blends.
  • The Côtes de Gascogne—an IGP/Vin de Pays area in the Armagnac region, is heavily planted to Sémillon.
  • The Loire Valley has a smattering of Sémillon, as does Portugal, Israel, Argentina, Chile, California, Washington State, New Zealand, and South Africa.

semillonFood Affinities – Base Ingredients:

  • Roast Chicken with Herbs!
  • Seafood of all kinds…try Classic French Steamed Mussels
  • Poultry, Duck, Veal, Pork…

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

  • Corn, Pumpkin, Squash, Polenta
  • Coconut, Apples, Pears, Pineapple
  • Nutmeg, Saffron
  • Hazelnuts, Cashews, Walnuts, Pecans
  • Bacon, Mushrooms, Sweet Onions, Garlic
  • Lemon and Grapefruit make excellent flavor bridges, but try not to overdo it on the acidity (remember, this is a low-acid wine)
  • Tarragon, Basil, Thyme, Lemongrass, Basil, Rosemary, Fresh herbs of all kinds
  • Butter, Brown Butter, Cream, Sour Cream, Olive Oil

If your Sémillon-based wine is more “Sauvignon” than “Sémillon” – check out the food pairing advice on the Cheat Sheet for Sauvignon Blanc.

If your Sémillon is botrytis-affected, it will go well with sweet dishes made with honey, cream, apricots, apples, and pears—in addition to pairing beautifully with savory dishes such as blue cheese and foie gras!

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” of Austin, Texas...missjane@prodigy.net

 

 

Filed under Cheat Sheets for White Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Cabernet Franc

October 14, 2021 4 Comments

The Soundbyte:  Cabernet Franc has often been thought of as Cabernet Sauvignon’s more cerebral and refined little brother. However, it might be time to hang up the “Cabernet Sauvignon’s little brother” cliché, and the sooner the better:  recent DNA technology has confirmed that Cabernet Franc, with a little help from Sauvignon Blanc, is actually Cabernet Sauvignon’s father.

Cabernet Franc is appreciated in France—particularly in Bordeaux, where it holds fast as one of the red grapes of the Bordeaux blend, and in the Loire (around Saumur and Touraine). The grape’s cold weather-heartiness is also leading to increased plantings in the wine world outside of Europe, where its unique elegant-structured-spicy quality is inspiring new legions of fans.

Typical Attributes of a Cabernet Franc-based wine:

  • Medium tannins, sometimes referred to as silky, fine, or well-integrated tannins.  Whatever you call it, Cabernet Franc does indeed have a lower tannin profile and a smoother mouth feel than many red wines.
  • Elegance, finesse, and good structure: these are well-earned terms often used to describe Cabernet Franc’s moderate levels of tannin combined with its typical moderate acidity.
  • Typical flavors and aromas include red fruit, berries, perfume, and spice.
  • Bright, sometimes pale red in color, although the color and depth can be deeper in warm weather versions.
  • Though typically thought of as lighter wines, Cabernet Franc-based reds from strong vintages or warmer climates can be full bodied and well-structured for aging.
  • Cabernet Franc is used to make delightful rosés in the Loire and many other regions (such as California and New York State).
  • Cabernet Franc’s ability to thrive in cooler (even cold) climates makes it a natural for use in ice wines as well as late harvest dessert wines, as is done in Ontario and New York.

Typical Aromas of a Cabernet Franc-based wine:

  • Fruity: Raspberry, Blueberry, Strawberry, Cranberry, Red Cherry, Black Currant, Cassis, Plum, Pomegranate
  • Spicy:  Black Pepper, White Pepper, Dried Herbs, Black Licorice, Rosemary
  • Earthy/Herbal/Vegetal:  Tobacco, Cedar, Cigar Box, Green Bell Pepper, Green Olives, Graphite, Mushroom, Tea
  • Floral:  Violets, “Blue Flowers,” Perfume
  • Oak-derived:  Vanilla, Coconut, Sweet Wood, Smoke

Where the Best Cabernet Franc is Grown:

  • Bordeaux, where it generally plays third fiddle in the Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Malbec/Petit Verdot/Carmenère blend.
    • Cabernet Franc does, however, often get to be the star of the show in St. Émilion and in much of Bordeaux’s right bank, where some of the most prestigious wines of the region (and the world) give Cabernet Franc a starring role. The vineyards at Château Cheval Blanc—one of the world’s most renowned estates—are planted to about 57% Cabernet Franc, and the vineyards Château Ausone are reportedly 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot.
  • The Loire Valley, where the regions of Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny make both red and rosé wines from a minimum of 90% Cabernet Franc.  Cab Franc is sometimes called Bouchy or Breton in the Loire.
  • Tuscany, of all places, where a brave soul at Tenuta di Trinoro makes a blended wine with varying levels of Cabernet Franc, feeling it is “under planted” in Bordeaux.
  • Northern Italy, particularly Friuli and Veneto, where it may be known as Bordo.
  • Hungary: Many people feel Cabernet Franc might have found a home in the vineyards of Hungary.  Cabernet Franc in Hungary gained lots of attention in the late 1990’s when it became apparent that some regions of Hungary were not optimal for Cabernet Sauvignon to reach its full ripeness. Cabernet Franc is now grown widely in the Hungarian regions of Villány, Szekszárd, and Eger.
  • Ontario, Canada, where it may be used for dry (table) wine, sparkling wine, or sweet wine/Icewine.
  • New York’s Finger Lakes and Long Island wine regions, as well as the states of Virginia, Michigan and Colorado.
  • California and Washington State, where the grape appears as part of the Meritage Blend as well as in varietal wines. In the warm Napa Valley, the plantings are small, but in some cases quite prestigious.

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

Beef, Veal, Pork

Chicken – just make sure you prepare it via a grill, sauté, bake, roast, broil or braise in order to add lots of flavor and complexity.  (Save the poached chicken on a bed of spinach salad for a Chenin Blanc day.)

Duck and just about any Poultry (see above.)

On the grill: meat, poultry, games, vegetables

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

Garlic, Roasted Garlic, Onions, Mushrooms

Bell Peppers, Cajun/Creole Spices

Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Bay Leaf

Tomatoes, Roasted Tomatoes, Eggplant, Fennel

Barbeque Flavors, Grilled and Smoked Foods

Greek and Middle Eastern Flavors

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas.

 

Filed under Cheat Sheets for Red Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Gamay

October 12, 2021 5 Comments

The Soundbyte:  The Gamay grape—officially known as  Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc—can make uncomplicated, easily drinkable, light bodied, light-colored red wines.  It is also capable of producing richly hued, rather tannic, complex, and age-worthy wines.  It’s a vinifera chameleon.

One thing that we can be assured of, though, is that the grape is hearty in the vineyard.  The grape is so prolific and high-yield that long ago it was feared that Gamay would overwhelm the vineyards of Burgundy, and the prolific grapes would damage the reputation of the fine Pinot Noir the Burgundy region was (and is) known for. In order to avoid this messy complication, Philip the Bold—then the Duke of Burgundy—banished the grape from the Kingdom and declared it to be an evil, disloyal plant. In a wonderful twist of fate, grape growers in Burgundy who loved the high-yield, easy-drinking wine made from Gamay were nonplussed and set up their beloved Gamay vines just a bit to the south of the vineyards of Burgundy, where the grape still reigns today.

Typical Attributes of a Gamay Based Wine:

    • Light-to-medium bodied, although it can surprise you at times with a sturdy wine.
    • The tannins in a Gamay-based wine can be quite diverse—some versions are light-to-medium, while some versions have sturdy tannins.  The grapes themselves are considered high tannin, although wine-making traditions often ameliorate their impact.
    • Crisp, lively acidity.
    • Some versions can have a light, cranberry juice-like clear red color; others have a deeper red hue that resembles a dark version of Pinot Noir.
    • Fruit-forward aromas and flavors of ripe berries, red fruits of all kinds, even apples and pears—however, some versions can show more aromatic complexity. Such version may show aromas and flavors such as savory herb, earthiness, and minerality.
    • Many versions are considered picnic wines—uncomplicated and easy to drink.  The fact that Gamay can be served slightly chilled for a refreshing thirst quencher adds to the picnic appeal.
    • Beaujolais is sometimes produced via the fermentation technique known as carbonic maceration.  Because of this unique process, Beaujolais often displays aromas of banana, bubble gum, pear gummies and/or red candy.
    • Many Gamay-based wines are highly drinkable when young. However, Gamay is capable of producing age-worthy wines. The Beaujolais Crus are all good examples of age-worthy Gamay.
    • We can’t forget the very popular “nouveau” style wine made from Gamay that is intended to be consumed just a few months after harvest.  Look for Beaujolais Nouveau to be released every year on the Third Thursday of November, along with a good deal of publicity and many excellent parties.

Typical Aromas of a Gamay-based Wine:

  • Fruity:  strawberry, raspberry, cranberry, cherry, red plum, red currant, ripe pear, red apple
  • Floral:  lavender, wildflower, violet, rose 
  • Herbal: dried herbs, white pepper, crushed black pepper
  • Earthy/Mineral: wet stone, crushed rock, dried leaves, wet dirt
  • Oak-Derived: oak, cedar, vanilla, sweet spice, licorice, nutmeg
  • Sometimes found as a result of carbonic maceration: pink bubblegum, banana, pear drop, red candy

Where The Best Gamay is Grown:

  • The Beaujolais Region of France, just south of (and somewhat overlapping) the Burgundy Region.  The wines of the Beaujolais Region include Beaujolais AOC Beaujolais-Villages AOC, and the highest quality wines—the ten Beaujolais Cru. Each of the ten Beaujolais Cru has its own AOC and will be labeled with the appellation name (such as Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, and Moulin-à-Vent.
  • We can’t forget the fun-and-fruity Beaujolais Nouveau, which accounts for almost 50% of the entire output of the region.
  • It’s kind of a well-known secret, but Gamay is still permitted to be used in in certain parts of Burgundy such as the Mâconnais, and just may be surreptitiously tucked in amongst the Pinot vines—even in some of Burgundy’s higher-ranking vineyards.
  • France’s Loire Valley, particularly Anjou, Touraine, and Cheverny, where the grape may turn up in red wines, rosé, or sparkling wines.
  • The Niagara Peninsula and other parts of Ontario (Canada).
  • California grows some Gamay, but there was confusion in the past about a wine called Napa Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais.  It is now known that these wines were made from a grape known as Valdiguié, which has its own history and style.  However, you can find true Gamay in California and Oregon these days.
  • Australia and New Zealand have a bit of Gamay.

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

Seafood of all kinds – try Mussels, Lobster Rolls, Crab Salads, Snapper Veracruz, or fried shrimp.  This might work best with the lighter versions, but if you are looking for a red wine with seafood match, Gamay will be among your best choices.

Chicken (hot or cold), Duck, Poultry of any kind.  Try duck with cherries.

Just about anything made from Pork:  Ham, Prosciutto, Sausages, Charcuterie, Roasted Pork Loin, Pork Chops

Picnic Food, Cold Food, Cheese Plates, Sandwiches (think Prosciutto on a Baguette with a slice of Brie…)

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

  • Tomatoes, Capers, Dijon Mustard
  • White Cheeses, Sharp Cheeses such as Feta
  • Salty Foods – maybe chips and dips, pretzels and hummus?
  • Onions, Garlic, Green Bell Peppers
  • Green Olives, Black Olives
  • Mixed flavors such as an array of appetizers or finger foods

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas…

 

Filed under Cheat Sheets for Red Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Malbec

October 10, 2021 Leave a comment

The Soundbyte:  One of Malbec’s earliest claims to fame is the spot it holds as one of the classic grape varieties approved for making red wines in the Bordeaux region of France.  Malbec was fairly widely planted in Bordeaux before a particularly harsh winter in 1956 wiped out a good majority of the vines, moat of which were never to be re-planted.  Nevertheless, Malbec is still used in Bordeaux, albeit in small amounts. Malbec can bring spiciness, deep color, ample tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor to blended red wines. These days, Malbec is best-known as the superstar of the high-altitude red wines of Argentina.  The best Malbecs can be described as mouth-filling, fruity, and sumptuous.  Worldwide, Malbec is planted in small amounts, but its popularity and acreage is on the rise.

Typical Attributes of a Malbec-based Wine:

  • Medium to full-bodied.  Malbec-based reds are known for having medium-to-high tannin and (often) a high level of dissolved solids (extract).
  • In France, Malbec is primarily used as a minor grape in the blended wines of Bordeaux and Southwest France. Outside of Europe, however, Malbec is often used in into 100% varietal wines.
  • The tannins can be a conundrum. In younger wines (or those made from less-ripe grapes), the tannins are sometimes described as tight or tightly-wound. Wines from warmer regions or riper grapes—as well as those made using certain wine making techniques (such as PFM)—can have tannins that are described as plush or ripe.
  • Malbec tends to make earthy, rustic wines.
  • Malbec-based wines tend to be very deep red or purple—opaque or almost inky—in color.
  • Malbec also makes a delightful rosé wine and…I’m beginning to see some late harvest/sweet wines made using Malbec.

Typical Aromas of a Malbec-based Wine:

Fruity:  Plum, Dark Cherry, Cooked Berries, Blackberry, Boysenberry, Raspberry, Fig, Black Currant

Floral: Violet, Lavender, Perfume (especially in wines of high altitude) 

Herbal: Fresh Herbs, Eucalyptus

Spicy:  Anise, Vanilla, Cocoa, Chocolate, Espresso, Tobacco

Sometimes from the Grape, and sometimes from Oak:  Oak, Cedar, Fresh Lumber, Mocha, Toast, Coffee, Tar

Where The Best Malbec is Grown:

  • Argentina…it especially thrives in the province of Mendoza.  Malbec is the major red varietal grape planted in Argentina.
  • In the Bordeaux region of France, where it is blended in small amounts to add spice to the Bordeaux Blend.
  • Cahors, the region in Southwest France known for making Malbec-based wines sometimes called “The Black Wine of Cahors.”
  • There is small amount grown in the Central Loire Valley of France.
  • There are some plantings in California, Washington State, Oregon and Texas— where it is made into both varietal wines and as a part of the Meritage blend.
  • You may be drinking Malbec but don’t know it; the grape goes by many aliases including Auxerrois, Côt (sounds like coat), and Pressac.

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

  • Beef, Lamb, Veal, Venison, Pork, Hard Cheeses

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

  • Garlic, Roasted Garlic, Onions, Mushrooms
  • Walnuts, Pecans
  • Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Bay Leaf
  • Tomatoes, Roasted Tomatoes, Sun-dried Tomatoes
  • Cocoa, Chocolate (easy on the sweetness!)
  • Eggplant, Fennel
  • Blackberries, Currants, Figs
  • Black Pepper, Creole Spices, Chili Spices, Barbeque Flavors

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas… missjane@prodigy.net

Filed under Cheat Sheets for Red Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Viognier

October 5, 2021 1 Comment

The Soundbyte:  Just a generation ago, Viognier was close to extinction. These days, this richly scented white grape has made a full recovery in terms of fame, popularity, and acreage. Viognier makes unique white wines that will bowl you over with their outrageous floral aromas and peach-pear-apricot fruit flavors. While Viognier will beguile you with its gorgeous scent and yellow-gold hue—make no mistake, this wine can pack a punch in terms of body, flavor, and alcohol. Proceed with caution!

Typical Attributes of a Viognier-Based Wine:

  • Intriguing floral scent combined with apricot, peach, and pear aromas
  • Rich fruit flavors (tree fruit, tropical fruit, ripe citrus) and a creamy mouthfeel
  • Even without oak aging, Viognier can be as full-bodied as an oaky Chardonnay
  • Deep golden color
  • Rich and over-the-top intense in flavor
  • Very often, this tips the scales for high alcohol (in the context of a white wine), although the overall richness of the wine often masks the perception of the heat of the alcohol content
  • Viognier is quite low in acid, but it may contain a bit of a bite of bitterness on the finish
  • The typical low acid often comes across as smooth and velvety on the palate
  • I have had a few late-harvest dessert wines made from Viognier, and they are delicious!

Typical Aromas of a Viognier-Based Wine:

Fruity:  Apricot, Over-ripe Apricot, Mango, Pineapple, Ripe Citrus (Tangerine, Mandarin Orange), Apple, Pear, Peach

Floral:  Honey, Acacia, Orange Blossom, Violet, Honeysuckle, Wildflowers

Spicy:  Anise, Clove, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Vanilla

Herbal:  Mown Hay, Tobacco, Mint

Butter, Cream

Where the Best Viognier is Grown:

  • The Northern Rhône appellations of Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet produce amazing white wines from 100% Viognier.
  • In the Southern Rhône and throughout the south of France, Viognier may be produced as a single-variety wine or used in an eclectic “white Rhône blend” alongside Marsanne, Roussanne, Piquepoul, and/or Muscat (among others)
  • Also in the Southern Rhône (and elsewhere), Viognier is known to be used in teeny-tiny amounts to add fragrance and a soft side to the red G-S-M or Syrah-based wines of the Rhône.  Even if you wouldn’t know it from looking at the label, a red Southern Rhône blend may contain up to 10% Viognier in the mix.
  • California, particularly the warmer regions such as Lodi and the Sierra Foothills.
  • The State of Virginia is beginning to make some excellent Viognier, and Texas makes some nice versions as well!
  • Australia makes some excellent versions.
  • Plantings in France’s Languedoc, Roussillon, and Provence regions are expanding.

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

  • Pungent Cheeses
  • Crab, Mussels, Shrimp, Salmon, Smoked Salmon
  • Smoked Food, Poultry, Turkey, Pork

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

  • Curry, Ginger, Clove, Cinnamon
  • Sweet Onions, Garlic, Coconut, Honey
  • Herbs, Corn, Polenta, Walnuts, Hazelnuts
  • Butter, Cream, Fresh Cheeses

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

Filed under Cheat Sheets for White Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Pinot Noir

September 24, 2021 Leave a comment

The Soundbyte:  The Pinot Noir grape has been grown in the Burgundy region of France for centuries, and is used to craft the region’s world-famous red wines.  Pinot Noir is also grown in Champagne, where it makes its way into many “house blend” Champagnes as well as Blanc de Noirs and Rosé Champagne.  Elsewhere in France, Pinot Noir is grown in the Loire Valley—several red wines of the Central Loire, including Sancerre (when its red), are based around Pinot Noir!

Pinot Noir has also found a home in the Willamette Valley Region of Oregon—so much so that the region is often referred to as Burgundy West.  The finicky grape thrives in the cooler growing regions of California, the warmer spots of New Zealand, and the coastal appellations of Australia (think Tasmania, Yarra Valley, and the Mornington Peninsula).

Despite its fame and fortune, Pinot Noir is known for being incredibly finicky in the vineyard. It is often called the heartbreak grape, and can be just as difficult in the winery as it is in the vineyard. Pinot Noir can indeed be the best of wines…or the worst of wines. Let’s talk about the best!

Typical Attributes of a Pinot Noir-based Wine:

  • Light garnet to dark ruby in color…sometimes the lightness of the color belies the flavor intensity of the wine!
  • Medium body, medium in tannin
  • The finest Pinot Noir wines combine juicy fruit flavors with earthy complexity and zingy, balanced acidity.
  • Pinot Noir is potentially one of the most delicate, complex, and food-friendly red wines.
  • Pinot Noir has a signature aromatic profile (imho) of floral notes at the top of the glass and cherry-berry scents at the bottom, both circling a core of “earthy-floral-garden dirt” aromas.
  • Save Pinot Noir for an occasion when you have at least 25 dollars to spend…bad Pinot Noir can be disappointing indeed. (The “New World Hope” exception to this rule just might be Pinot Noir from Tasmania…time will tell.)
  • Pinot Noir makes fantastic sparkling wines and is the most widely planted grape in Champagne.  If you are drinking a Blanc de Noir, chances are, you are drinking Pinot.
  • Rosé of Pinot Noir is a beautiful thing.

Typical Aromas of a Pinot Noir-Based Wine:

Fruity:  Black cherry, dried cherry, raspberry, strawberry, cranberry, blueberry, plum, dried plum, pomegranate

Earthy:  Mushroom, wet dirt, wet leaves, dry leaves, barnyard, dried herbs

Floral:  Rose, violet, dried flowers

Wood-Derived:  Vanilla, smoke, oak, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove (hints of spice from barrel aging)

Crazy but true: Cola, Dr. Pepper, prune, cocoa, Earl Grey Tea

Where The Best Pinot Noir is Grown:

  • The Burgundy Region of France
  • Champagne
  • France’s Loire Valley…Sancerre Rouge is actually Pinot Noir
  • Oregon…sometimes called “Burgundy West”!
  • California, particularly in and around the Central Coast, Sonoma, and the cooler portions of Napa
  • New Zealand
  • Australia grows Pinot Noir in its cooler regions such as Tasmania, Yarra Valley, and the Mornington Peninsula.

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

  • Beef, Lamb, Veal, Poultry, Pork
  • Heavier seafood such as Salmon and Tuna…this is truly a wine that can pair with both red and white meat (depending on the preparation, of course)
  • This is an ideal wine for the typical American Thanksgiving menu, as well as most other “everybody brings a dish” type of holiday meals.  

Food Affinities – Bridge Ingredients:

  • Mushrooms, Truffles, Black Olives
  • Earthy Flavored Cheeses, Blue Cheese, Soft Cheeses
  • Tomatoes, Garlic, Shallots, Onions
  • Basil Pesto, Fresh Herbs
  • Eggplant, Beets, Roasted Red Bell Peppers
  • Cherries, Cranberry, Plum – as with most dry wines, careful with the sweetness level.

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas

 

 

 

Filed under Cheat Sheets for Red Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , , ,

Wine Grape Cheat Sheets: Riesling

September 23, 2021 3 Comments

The Soundbyte: Often misunderstood due to those overly sweet, bright blue-and-pink bottles resting on the bottom shelf at the supermarket, Riesling is one of the leading white wine grapes in the world.  Riesling produces some of the finest, most complex, and longest-lasting white wines in the world.  It is considered to be native to Germany, where its cultivation can be traced back thousands of years.

The Riesling grape is renowned for its ability to walk a tight rope balancing act in its combination of sugar and acid, resulting in wines that somehow manage to be both delicate and complex.  As for the pronunciation of the name, in order to say it correctly—REE-sling—you have to smile!

Typical Attributes of a Riesling Based Wine:

  • Riesling has the amazing ability to be both very fruity and very acidic at the same time.
  • Riesling’s acidic backbone and complex, balanced flavors give it the ability to age (when produced in an age-worthy style).
  • The greatest Riesling vines in the world are grown in cool growing regions and often made into dry white wines renowned for their bracing acidity. Terms like steely, nervy, racy, tongue-curling, zingy, and precise come to mind as good ways to describe the potential acidity of a Riesling in all its glory.
  • Despite my devotion to the dry Rieslings of the world, it is true that much of the Riesling you may find on the shelf does indeed have a degree of residual sugar. This sweetness may or may not be detectable due to the balancing acidity in the wine.

In a German or Austrian wine, the term Kabinett on the label indicates a low level of ripeness at harvest. The terms Auslese and Spätlese refer to grapes with a higher level of sugar at harvest—these wines may be dry, or they may contain a small degree of residual sugar (this depends on the winemaking process).

Dessert wines made from Riesling have their place among the best dessert wines in the world.  Such wines may be labeled as Late Harvest Riesling, Botrytis-affected Riesling, and Riesling Ice Wine.  German-speaking regions may refer to these wines using terms such as Beerenauslese,  Trockenbeerenauslese, or Eiswein.

Typical Aromas of a Riesling Based Wine:

Fruity:  Peach, Dried Peaches, Apricot, Apple, Green Apple, Baked Apple, Pear, Orange, Orange Peel, Lime

Floral:  Jasmine, Rose, Orchid, Juniper, Honey, Perfume, Wildflowers, Orange Blossom, Lime Blossom

Mineral:  Flinty, Steely, Wet Stones, Chalk, Ozone (the scent of the air after a rainstorm)

Chemical:  Petrol, Gasoline, Rubber Bands, Varnish, Wet Paint, Paint Remover

Late Harvest Riesling and Riesling Ice Wine (Eiswein) can take these aromas to the extreme…I’ve found that the lime aromas transform into a quick scent of pickle juice or green olives (sounds weird, I know, but give it a try). Sweet Riesling may evoke the aromas of dried peaches rubbed on a wet stone.  Just try it for yourself!

Where the Best Riesling is Grown:

  • Riesling is native to Germany and grown throughout Germany’s wine regions.
  • Austria
  • The Alsace Region of France.
  • California, Oregon, Washington State (Bubbly Prof really likes the Washington State Rieslings)
  • New York State’s Finger Lake Region
  • Canada, especially the Niagara Peninsula
  • The cooler regions of Australia such as the Eden Valley and the Clare Valley

Food Affinities – Base Ingredients:

  • Sushi…it’s the best match in town so I had to list it first.  It’s crave-worthy.
  • Seafood of all kinds
  • Smoked Seafood – Smoked Salmon and Riesling would be my “last meal” request.
  • Chicken (and poultry of any kind)
  • Ham, Pork, Prosciutto, Sausages
  • Asian Flavors, Indian Flavors—Riesling loves the salt, the spice, and even the heat.

 Bridge Ingredients:

  • Jalapeno Peppers, Wasabi – Bubbly Prof says any type of “green heat” is fabulous with Riesling.
  • Cilantro, Lemon Grass, Fresh herbs of any kind
  • Orange, Orange Zest, Lemon, Lime
  • Avocado, Corn, Leeks, Sweet Onions, Tomatoes, Sun-dried Tomatoes
  • Bacon, Pancetta, Green Olives, Capers
  • Ginger, Curry, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Allspice, Soy Sauce, Salty condiments

Note: When it comes to food pairings, by all means—drink what you like!

The Bubbly Professor is “Miss Jane” Nickles of Austin, Texas

 

 

Filed under Cheat Sheets for White Wine Grapes Tagged with , , , , , , , ,

← Older posts

Newer posts →